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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Přepadlý blok
Start with the overhanging crack to the right of the route 'Roll up your sleeves' to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Malá nebeská stěna
From the Metro route over the overhang into the corner and up the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Malá nebeská stěna
Right into the Metro up the wall using the crack to the ring. Up the wall with difficulty… Rock Climbing
6
Malá nebeská stěna
Via Marta under the overhang and right up the wall diagonally over two rings to the ring… Rock Climbing
2+
Malá nebeská stěna
In the right part of the wall up the inner chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá nebeská stěna
In the W face into the hole to the clock. Traverse left behind the edge to the ring and… Rock Climbing
6-
Malá nebeská stěna
Via Kristova léta to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring. Up the wall right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá nebeská stěna
Start like the Údolní corner up to the start of the crack (chimney difficulty). Left into… Rock Climbing
3
Malá nebeská stěna
Start like the NE corner. Up the inner chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá nebeská stěna
Right of the Northeast corner on the Small Heavenly Wall, up the middle of the wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá nebeská stěna
Up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Malá nebeská stěna
Up the edge over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Prostřední nebeská stěna
6-
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Right in the N face to the left edge of the long hole. Traverse right to the NW edge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
In the W face up the broken crack to the ring. Right up the crack and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Malá nebeská stěna
Up the crack in the right NW edge to the small ledge into the recess to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
In the N face under the overhang. Up the crack and the small pillar under the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Up the corner to the ledge (clock) and the wall to the ring. Briefly up the blunt edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Briefly on the Holubička route to the niche. Right behind the edge and up the small crack… Rock Climbing
3
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Up the corner double crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Up the corner crack to the left of the Bat Falcon to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Up the wall and crack under the overhang (belay). Right up the wall and later up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Via Brýle pro Alberta about 2 m above the 1st overhang. Right to the edge (ring) and over… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Velká nebeská stěna
Follow the Sladká Francie route to the ledge and crack to the bolt. Up the face… Rock Climbing
6-
Velká nebeská stěna
Up the wide crack between Prostřední and Velká nebeská stěna to the ledge to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Velká nebeská stěna
From the 2nd bolt of the Odkaz léta route, left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Follow the Staré schody route to the bolt. About 2 m above the bolt, right and up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
Left of the corner crack. Up the crack in the wall past the juniper to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední nebeská stěna
On the left in the south face, diagonally left to the bolt. Along the crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing
2
Velká nebeská stěna

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