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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Velká nebeská stěna
From the bolt of the Rambo route, straight to the last bolt of the Super Rambo route.… Rock Climbing
3
Velká nebeská stěna
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Velká nebeská stěna
From the ravine, follow the crack in the south edge to the ledge. Left into the face and… Rock Climbing
6
Velká nebeská stěna
Up the crack in the middle of the south (valley-side) face, left under the big overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velká nebeská stěna
In the left part of the east face, straight up (hourglass) into the small chimney and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Velká nebeská stěna
In the left part of the valley-side wall, straight over the overhang (bolt) up the face… Rock Climbing
5+
Masív u klíče
To the right of "Ožeralé tlamičky", up the wall to K and an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Masív u klíče
To the right of the dividing corner, up the "honeycomb wall" of the massif past K to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Gorodek
Up the middle of the face to K, then further to the summit. Fixed belay
5
Metelice
Climb the left valley-side wall to a block. Overhang, left crack, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Metelice
From the west, climb the chimney to a block in the valley-side wall, then an overhang and… Rock Climbing
5
Metelice
Up the middle of the uphill face, past a bolt, to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Metelice
In the west face, follow the corner crack under the overhang, then over it and up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Metelice
Up the right uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Metelice
Up the middle of the east face, past a bolt, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Metelice
By the left upper edge n. v.
4-
Metelice
From the west by rib and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Berla mrazilka
Through the face near the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Berla mrazilka
Through the crack in the lower face n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Berla mrazilka
Through the short face between the small pillars n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Berla mrazilka
Through the lower face to K and the right side n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Berla mrazilka
By the right upper edge higher up to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Emsina
Through a narrow chimney in the lower face n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Emsina
Through the center of the lower face higher up through a recess n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Emsina
Through the narrow east face of the pillar (circle) n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Emsina
To the right in the lower face into the crevice between blocks. Rock Climbing
3
Hubcuk
From the saddle between Tříkrálový and Hubcuk, by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Emsina
Southeast edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Hubcuk
From the saddle through a small chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Emsina
Through the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing

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