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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Ledový kámen
To the right of the overhang, follow the wall and depression to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Ledový kámen
From the east by recess to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ledový kámen
From the west, up the chimney to the slender overhang and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Ledový kámen
Right of the south recess up the wall to the ring. Into the big hole (belay) up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Ledový kámen
From the right side to the center of the wall, then up the little tower to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ledový kámen
Edge to the right of the East Route to the shelf and the center of the wall to the summit Rock Climbing
5
Ledový kámen
Smooth edge left of the north corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ledový kámen
Narrow NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ledový kámen
From the north by corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Ledový kámen
Right of the north corner. Edge to the ring further as above.
3
Ledový kámen
From the west by recess and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna za Korouhvičkou
Overhang over BH and smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna za Korouhvičkou
Edge and wall to the ring. Then straight on n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Stěna za Korouhvičkou
Corner, crack and wall over K to the abseil point Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stěna za Korouhvičkou
From flakes to the balcony and freely to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Stěna za Korouhvičkou
Overhang over a ring into a sloping wall, right up and left to the 2nd ring. Straight on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stěna za Korouhvičkou
Through a crack in the edge to the shelf and another crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
GK masiv
Start in the eastern chimney on steps, as above. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Bonbónek
From a rounded edge over a small balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
GK masiv
Right at the edge of the south face to a grassy ledge, stepping over (Bh) as above. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
GK masiv
In the edge of the south face, over a chimney (Bh), as above. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
GK masiv
Western jagged chimney Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bonbónek
Through the center of the north face, over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bonbónek
In the NW face to a ledge and by a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bonbónek
By a recess in the center of the south face, over a ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
GK masiv
East feature edge, as above. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bonbónek
By the edge and rib to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Bonbónek
From the plateau side by the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Cestářka
On the left in the valley wall along cracks to a ledge. By the wall and a short crack to… Rock Climbing
4+
Cestářka
In the valley wall over the overhang to the edge. Along the edge along small cracks to a… Rock Climbing

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