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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Cestářka
From the valley side by a curved hand crack to the ring. Fixed belay
5
Cestářka
By a smooth wall using friction, over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
In the left part of the lower face of the right block, up an overhanging wall over two… Rock Climbing
4+
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
On the right in the valley wall, briefly by a crack below the SE face. Left upwards to a… Rock Climbing
5+
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
On the right in the S face, briefly to a ledge. By an open crack to another large ledge.… Rock Climbing
4-
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
From the SE from the slope, briefly under an overhang. Through it and higher up by a wide… Rock Climbing
6-
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
Through the center of the right half of the S face, by a chimney and a crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing
3
Malá Pegnitzwand
Completely on the right in the SE face, along the steps n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
In the West face, a crack, higher up a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
On the right in the West face, a crack to the ring. Up the wall along the edge over two… Rock Climbing
6-
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
On the left in the South face, a crack rightwards to the arete and along it to a ledge to… Rock Climbing
5
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
From the overgrown platform (ledge), up the center of the face to the ring. Up the wall,… Rock Climbing
5+
Pegnitzwand (Pegnitzská stěna)
Significantly on the left in the NW face, an overhanging edge to the ring. Left along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Malá Pegnitzwand
On the right in the lower face, a short crack to a ledge and over the ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Malá Pegnitzwand
In the center of the massif, a crack (S-shaped) to a sloping ledge over K. n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velký hlásný
Over the bulge from the massif and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký hlásný
In the lower face, from the NW corner, a corner and crack to a ledge. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Malá Pegnitzwand
To the notch and up the central lower chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá Pegnitzwand
Up the wall to the left of the lower chimney to a ledge, over the rounded attachment n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velký hlásný
In the left part of the lower face, along the edge to a ledge. Left, via an overhanging… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý hlásný
In the left part of the lower West face, a crack to the large plateau. Along the West… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký hlásný
Along an indistinct edge in the lower face to a ledge. An open crack over the large … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velký hlásný
Up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý hlásný
On the left in the NW face, from the corner with a fine crack under the overhang, left… Rock Climbing
4+
Velký hlásný
Up the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Malý hlásný
On the left in the lower NW face, over the ring to the large plateau and like the West… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý hlásný
To the St. c. ledge and right along the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Malý hlásný
The route leads through the center of the lower rock face. Up the wall over the ring to… Rock Climbing
5+
Malý hlásný
Along the SE edge of the lower rock face, over the ring to the platform and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý hlásný
From the foothills, center of the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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