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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Malý hlásný
From the J side, go left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malý hlásný
Chimney between the massif and the tower, higher up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malý hlásný
In the lower West face, a hand crack up to the large plateau. Along the SW edge to the… Rock Climbing
2
Glum
In the South side, crack to the summit.
Přeskok
Glum
Jump from the Great Dwarf Tower. Rock Climbing
1
Glum
In the gorge on the East side, crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Glum
By the edge over the overhang, summit. Rock Climbing
2
Glum
Jump from the left massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Glum
From the stepped wall, summit. Rock Climbing
2
César
From the SE massif, jump to the summit.
4-
César
Crack in the NE face, summit.
Přeskok
Glum
Jump from the massif. Rock Climbing
2+
Glum
Along the North edge, upwards. Rock Climbing
?
César
From the foothills to the SW, right jump to the balcony and a step to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Glum
Right in the East side, chimney between the massif and the tower, summit. Rock Climbing
2+
César
West edge, summit.
2+
César
From SW. M descent, traverse to the S. edge and the summit.
5
Velká trpasličí věž
Overhanging South face, over the ring into the recess and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Velká trpasličí věž
By the edge over the overhang into the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Velká trpasličí věž
In the valley wall from the large birch tree, overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Velká trpasličí věž
In the North face from the hole, overhanging crack and higher to the right wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
César
Left crack in the SW face, summit.
3
César
Blunt North edge, summit.
5+
Prachatická věž
Up a crack in the center of the northwest face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Prachatická věž
From the bolt, directly up the center of the nose. Rock Climbing
4+
Velká trpasličí věž
In the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Prachatická věž
On the left in the northwest face, up a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Velká trpasličí věž
By the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Prachatická věž
On the right in the northwest face, into a crack and onto a ledge. Up the pillar to the… Rock Climbing
2
Prachatická věž
From the upper side, over steps to the balcony (rappel anchor) and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing

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