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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Lalulá
From Ztracenka descend via shallow crack, overhang, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rozeklaná věž
In the E wall, up the crack to the ledge and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lalulá
Jump from Ztracenka to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Lalulá
To the right of N. c., up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lalulá
From the chimney into the crack and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lalulá
Up the wall from the scree to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lalulá
Up the crack between the block and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lalulá
Up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lalulá
Through the center of the valley wall, passing a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Lalulá
Through the plateau chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lalulá
In the left part of the valley wall, over the overhang and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lalulá
From the E up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Spejbl a Hurvínek
By the edge to the right of the Old Route, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Spejbl a Hurvínek
On the left in the SE wall by a crack, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Spejbl a Hurvínek
Through the center of the SE wall by a crack in a small uphill wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Spejbl a Hurvínek
By a corner rib in the S corner n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Spejbl a Hurvínek
By jumping from Ztracenka n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Spejbl a Hurvínek
On the right in the NW wall, through a crack with an overhanging start n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Spejbl a Hurvínek
By the eastern edge, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Spejbl a Hurvínek
5m to the right of the Maugli path, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Spejbl a Hurvínek
On the left in the west wall by a rib to a small balcony, rightwards by the wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Spejbl a Hurvínek
By a chimney between the tower and Ztracenka n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Spejbl a Hurvínek
Through the right part of the east wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Masiv trempů
From Z wall into a deep double corner and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Masiv trempů
Along the left valley edge along a crevice and to the left to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Masiv trempů
Between the Normal Route and the Right Uphill Route, straight up the wall to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Masiv trempů
On the right in the uphill wall, through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Masiv trempů
On the left in the NW wall, a broken corner slanting to the right under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Masiv trempů
On the left in the NW wall, through a subtle crack to a saddle and over a wedged boulder… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Masiv trempů
To the left of the valley corner, through a crack to the 1st ring. To the left through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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