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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Masiv trempů
On the right in the valley wall, through a wide crack to a balcony. To the left along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Masiv trempů
In the corner from SW, through a crack to a balcony. Through a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Masiv trempů
On the left in the valley wall, through a chimney and a crack under the overhang and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Masiv trempů
In the valley wall between the appendage and the tower to a ledge. Briefly to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Masiv trempů
Start (at the appendage) through the center of the valley pillar to a ring. On the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Masiv trempů
From the ring of "Pája's variant" directly to the ring of the "valley route". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Masiv trempů
At the foot of the valley wall onto a block under the overhang and up the wall to a ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Masiv trempů
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Masiv trempů
From the scree on the left, to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Masiv trempů
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Masiv trempů
On the right in the SE wall, onto a step and through a crack along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Masiv trempů
Through the center of the SE wall to a crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malý atol
From the upland side, through the center of the wall to the foreshore and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Malý atol
From the upland side, along the left wall to the foreshore and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malý atol
From the saddle, along the right edge to the foreshore and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Malý atol
From the pillar over the BH, n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malý atol
Hand crack running to the right in the SW edge, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malý atol
Hand crack running to the left in the W wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malý atol
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Malý atol
Crack in the NE wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Malý atol
Eastern edge, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malý atol
With the edge, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vratislav
From the block, step over to the edge and along it, through a bolt to the ledge. Climb… Rock Climbing
3
Vratislav
To the right of the Wobbly Boulder route, along the edge (watches) to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Malý atol
On the right in the SW wall, through a corner over blocks, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vratislav
From the block, drop into the wall to the wobbly boulder and climb the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Malý atol
On the left in the SW wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vratislav
Climb the wall along the edge to the 1st bolt, higher to the 2nd bolt, and from the left… Rock Climbing
6-
Vratislav
In the right part of the valley wall, directly over 2 bolts to the balcony (clock), and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Malý atol
To the left of the Old Route, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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