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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Stěna horské služby
From the large platform in the left part of the downhill wall, by a crack to the ledge to… Rock Climbing
5
Stěna horské služby
From the South slab tower by cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Krtina
In the W wall, initially overhanging, then with a widening crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Stěna horské služby
From the block by the wall, then by the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Krtina
By the S wall onto the shelf and then by the crack through the center of the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing
4+
Stěna horské služby
In the left part of the wall by a hand-crack in a prominent corner, then by the chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Stěna horské služby
From the ravine from the sloping side of the block to the right into the crack and then… Rock Climbing
3
Stěna horské služby
By the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Krtina
From the 1st ring c. Color world directly by the wall without an edge using protection c.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
8-/8
Krtina
Along the left edge onto the shelf and then by the wall to the ring. Slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Krtina
From the 1st ring c Color world to the left onto the edge and straight across 2 Bh. to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Krtina
6-
Krtina
In the S wall diagonally to the right onto the step to the ring. By the edge, higher on… Rock Climbing
6
Krtina
4+
Krtina
In the NW corner, overhang into the crack and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čertova kazatelna
6-
Čertova kazatelna
Through the center of the descending side, by the crack to the ledge. Up the wall to K…
4+
Krtina
5
Čertova kazatelna
From the center of the downhill side to the right towards K. By the edge to the 2nd K.…
4+
Čertova kazatelna
3
Žežická jehla
Through the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Žežická jehla
Along the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Cestářův domeček
4-
Cestářův domeček
4-
Cestářův domeček
2+
Žežická jehla
By the wide chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cestářův domeček
In the middle of the descending wall, by the crack over K n. t.
Přeskok
Žežická jehla
Rock Climbing

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