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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Jezevčí doupě
4-
Jezevčí doupě
Right in the SE wall, a crack and corner to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Jezevčí doupě
Through the middle of the left half of the wall, a short crack to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Jezevčí doupě
4+
Jezevčí doupě
In the right part of the SE wall, a crack over a small overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jezevčí doupě
To the right of the corner, up delicate cracks to the ring. Over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Pašerácká stěna
To the right of the Adršpach road, up the corner under the wedged boulder and over it to… Rock Climbing
5
Pašerácká stěna
From the East cracks in the corner and left up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall,… Rock Climbing
3
Jezevčí doupě
In the SW wall, up the chimney to the balcony and right up another chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pašerácká stěna
On the right in the SE wall, up the corner, briefly to the right and through a yellow… Rock Climbing
5+
Jezevčí doupě
In the SW wall into the overhanging gully and up the wall to the ring. To the balcony,… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pašerácká stěna
Left of the Ardršpach Route through the groove over the 1st ring to the hole to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
6
Pašerácká stěna
Right of the Valley Route up the wall over five overhangs and 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jezevčí doupě
Left gully over a ring to a balcony (clock). From the clock, left through cracks to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pašerácká stěna
In the valley wall from the bivouac through the crack under the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Pašerácká stěna
In the West wall through the crack over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pašerácká stěna
From the left chimney right into the wall to the 1st ring. Overhanging wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
2+
Pašerácká stěna
In the West wall through the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pašerácká stěna
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pašerácká stěna
Left of the bivouac, overhanging wall to the ring. Right into the notch, higher back left… Rock Climbing
5+
Pašerácká stěna
Overhanging wall to the ring and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Pašerácká stěna
Left in the West wall through the crack to the ledge and corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pašerácká stěna
NW edge over the ledge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Severní plotnová věž
In the right part of the uphill wall from the block to the ring. Right into the gully and… Rock Climbing
4-
Bohunčin masiv
Right of the left edge through the crack, no traverse.
4+
Severní plotnová věž
5
Severní plotnová věž
Crack in the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Severní plotnová věž
In the valley wall, follow the corner crack to the St. c. traverse. Briefly to the left,… Rock Climbing
6
Severní plotnová věž
4-
Severní plotnová věž
From the uphill side, traverse right to the short crack and through it to the balcony.… Rock Climbing

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