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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Severní plotnová věž
6-
Severní plotnová věž
Through the center of the valley wall over K to the st. c. crack. Upwards through it.
5
Severní plotnová věž
SW edge into the hole, left and a short crack to the balcony in the center. NW crack.… Rock Climbing
4+
Severní plotnová věž
From NE into the hole and through to the corner in the SE wall. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Severní plotnová věž
"Valley Route" to the added ring and directly over the overhang (2 rings, crossing the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Severní plotnová věž
6-
Severní plotnová věž
In the right part of the V wall, follow the edge using a crack and a sloping crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Severní plotnová věž
Sloping crack to the left onto the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Salina jehla
Diagonally right through the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4+
Salina jehla
Along the right W valley edge. Rock Climbing Overhang
4+
Varhanní stěna
Right of Stará cesta, up the wall near the edge to the overhang and up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní stěna
Up a crack into the chimney and up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Varhanní stěna
Through the center of the NE face, past a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní stěna
Up a crack in the right part of the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Varhanní stěna
Up a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Varhanní stěna
Up a short E arete to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní stěna
Up a crack in an indistinct corner to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Varhanní stěna
From the passage between the massif, briefly up the wall to the balcony and a corner to… Rock Climbing
6-
Varhanní stěna
Through the center of the overhanging SE wall, past a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Varhanní stěna
In the left part of the NW wall, up cracks to the platform and a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Varhanní stěna
NW chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní stěna
In the center of the NW wall, up a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Varhanní stěna
From the niche left of the chimney, diagonally up the wall to the 1st bolt. Up the wall … Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní stěna
With the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Varhanní stěna
Up the wall past 2 bolts below the summit overhang to the 3rd bolt. Over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
5+
Varhanní stěna
From the space between the Děrava Tower, step left into the wall, briefly using a layback… Rock Climbing
4-
Varhanní stěna
Through a crack to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
5
Varhanní stěna
Laybacking under the overhang (ring) and straight to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Varhanní stěna
The route is used for skipping and traversing to the Děrava Tower. Rock Climbing
2+
Varhanní stěna
Up the Valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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