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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Křídlo netopýra
Up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Křídlo netopýra
Up the chimney briefly to a flake, then along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Křídlo netopýra
Through the middle of the wall past a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Křídlo netopýra
Up the left widening crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Křídlo netopýra
From the space between Bat Wing and Bat Wall, up the wall with a short hand traverse into… Rock Climbing
3
Křídlo netopýra
From the upland side to the right, past the edge, a short rib to a boulder. Traverse left… Rock Climbing
2+
Křídlo netopýra
Up the left upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Křídlo netopýra
From the corner, an overhanging hand traverse to the 1st ring, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Křídlo netopýra
From the corner into the chimney, up it, and then up the western wall past a ring to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Křídlo netopýra
Through the middle of the upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Netopýří stěna
To the right of the downhill path, along the edge of the pillar to its end and a short… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Netopýří stěna
Left of c. Piano directly under the large overhang to the ring. Center over the overhang … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Netopýří stěna
In the right part of the S wall, hand crack to the balcony. Then up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Netopýří stěna
From the point left of c. Piano with a step into the wall. Up the wall over the overhang … Rock Climbing
5
Netopýří stěna
Start in the SW wall and traverse left to the ring. Diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Netopýří stěna
Crack in the S wall to the ring, crack and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Netopýří stěna
Start on the narrow W edge, higher up crack to the 1st ring. Right to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Netopýří stěna
Left route up over the overhang (belay in the crack). Traverse left to the rib and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Netopýří stěna
Crack and corner in the N wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Netopýří stěna
(The route runs along the edge to the opposite massif from the Sultan edge). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Netopýří stěna
In the N wall, crack to the ledge to the ring, wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Netopýří stěna
(the route leads to the left part of the wall) From the slope to the light wall along a… Rock Climbing
6-
Netopýří stěna
By stepping into the N wall and to the ring. Along the edge to the ledge in the W edge.… Rock Climbing
5
Turecká stěna
Up the overhanging W edge, left to the ring and traverse left into the crack. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Turecká stěna
Up the S wall to the ring and crack right into the hole to the clocks. Up the crack left… Rock Climbing
4+
Netopýří stěna
From the overgrown platform up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Turecká stěna
Start as for the yellow wall. Crack right to the ring, over the hole to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
4+
Netopýří stěna
From the SW from the overgrown platform, chimney and crack to the ledge to the ring. Left… Rock Climbing
4+
Netopýří stěna
From the SW from the overgrown platform, chimney, higher up crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Turecká stěna
In the left part of the valley wall, up the overhanging wall to the hole (clocks). Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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