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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Věž v koutě
At the beginning of the gully between the massif and Široká věž (Wide Tower), up the face… Rock Climbing
5
Věž v koutě
Chimneying between the massif and the tower to a crack. Left to a step and right up a… Rock Climbing
2
Věž v koutě
On the left in the massif jump to the top Rock Climbing
5
Věž v koutě
From the gully between the massif and the tower, hand crack along the edge to a small… Rock Climbing
2+
Mladík
Up the sharp sloping edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mladík
To the right of the Cat's Path, up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mladík
Via the upper edge under the abseil point. Between the tower and the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Mladík
Through the center of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Mladík
Up the wall on the right descending edge (clock) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Stařec
Via the V-shaped edge and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mladík
Up the SE wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Stařec
Up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mladík
Over the block from Starec to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Stařec
In the right part of the NW wall, go left into the hole to the ring, then up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4-
Stařec
Up the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Stařec
Rock Climbing
3
Stařec
Through the crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Stařec
Via the edge and the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Stařec
Southern wall via K n. v.
4+
Stařec
Rock Climbing
4-
Stařec
Through the crack on the right edge of the SE wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Berlínská zeď
By the Northwest wall across two rings to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Berlínská zeď
By the right crack near the edge up. Rock Climbing
5
Berlínská zeď
From the valley between the wall and the block to the crack in the wall. By crack, higher… Rock Climbing
2+
Berlínská zeď
By the left part of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Berlínská zeď
From the crack diagonally to the right to the 1st ring. Along the sharp edge (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing
4+
Berlínská zeď
To the left of The Wall by crack up. Rock Climbing
4+
Berlínská zeď
By the right part of the chimney, higher through the overhanging corner to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pastýř
By the SW edge of the lower foothill, to the left by a gentle lieback to the 1st ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Berlínská zeď
Completely in the left part of the wall (from Pastýř) by crack (ring) and by wall to the… Rock Climbing

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