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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Turecká stěna
From the boulder under the W wall upwards, traverse right and along the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Turecká stěna
To the right of the W chimney, up the overhanging crack to the ledge near the "clock". To… Rock Climbing
5
Turecká stěna
Up the left part of the W wall, over several overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Turecká stěna
Up the arched NW edge to the 1st ring. From the balcony, step into the wall and to the… Rock Climbing
5
Turecká stěna
Start like Strakonice fez up to the clocks. Then right into the wide crack c.… Rock Climbing
5
Turecká stěna
Up the crack in the S wall and right to the platform to the ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Turecká stěna
Rock Climbing
2+
Cvičiště
From the north, up the stepped wall to the top.
5
Turecká stěna
Up the wall to the left of the S corner, using a hand jam to the ring, and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Turecká stěna
Up the chimney and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Turecká stěna
Up the overhanging NE narrow wall, past the ring to the balcony. Up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Cvičiště
In the center of the descending wall (2 BH) to the top.
6-
Cvičiště
On the left in the descending wall to the BH and up the wall to the top.
4+
Cvičiště
On the right side of the descending side, near the edge, up the wall to the top.
2+
Cvičiště
Up the left edge of the uphill wall over the overhang to the top.
2
Cvičiště
On the uphill side, up the rising ramp to the top.
2+
Cvičiště
Up the center of the uphill wall along the crack to the ledge and to the top.
2+
Gauneři
To the right of the "Hlaveň u spánku" route, up the chimney and later to the right to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Gauneři
In the right part of the massif, along the edge of the pillar, past 2bh to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Gauneři
To the left of the path Pan Růžovej, past 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Gauneři
To the right of the path "Dark Alley", up the wall of the pillar, past 2Bh to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Gauneři
Through the center of the left pillar past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž v koutě
From the top of "Heather Tower" jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž v koutě
Descend the south edge from Protěž tower, traverse and then climb the wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž v koutě
Start as Hadí žíla (Snake Vein), chimneying crack to the 1st ring, then hand crack to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Věž v koutě
From the chimney from the W crack, right to a step and (crosses the Půlnoční návštěva … Rock Climbing
6-
Věž v koutě
From the 2nd ring of the Následuj mě do tmy (Follow Me into the Darkness) route, directly… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž v koutě
From the valley, up the wall to the balcony and left to the ring. Indistinct edge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž v koutě
Up the chimney to the platform below Vřesová věž (Heather Tower). Up a crack in the NW… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž v koutě
From the space between Vřesová věž (Heather Tower) and Věž v koutě (Tower in the Corner),… Rock Climbing

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