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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Varhanní stěna
In the south-west wall, through a hole to a ring and left through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Varhanní stěna
In the east-southeast wall, from a shelf left to a ring and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vztyčená jehla
From the 1st ring of the New Valley Route diagonally right along the edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vztyčená jehla
Up the edge to the 'clocks'. Stepping into the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vztyčená jehla
Valley Route to a ring. Straight up the wall to the 2nd ring from the New Valley Route.… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vztyčená jehla
Start as for the Valley Route to the end of the crack and right to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vztyčená jehla
Following the Scheffler's Crack route to the 'clocks'. Along the edge to a ring. From the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vztyčená jehla
Through the center of the northeast wall to a ring. From the ring slightly left, upwards,… Rock Climbing
6
Vztyčená jehla
Up the left Valley edge around the 'clocks' and further up the wall to the ring of the… Rock Climbing
2+
Wuttkeho věž
A traverse from the massif into the wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vztyčená jehla
Up the northwest edge under overhangs to a ring. Through a crack to the right,… Rock Climbing
3
Wuttkeho věž
To the left of the Lunch Route, up a large rib that runs left and through a crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vztyčená jehla
Up the right part of the northeast wall to a step to a ring. Ascend into the wall and to… Rock Climbing
5+
Wuttkeho věž
Up the south wall along a crack to a shelf and then through a crack or along an edge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Wuttkeho věž
Through an overhanging crack in the northwest wall. Rock Climbing
3
Wuttkeho věž
Overhang from the stone on the upland side to the E edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Wuttkeho věž
Up the crack along the S edge and then up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Wuttkeho věž
In the right part of the downhill wall, up the crack to the ring. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Wuttkeho věž
Up the edge directly to the 1st BH. Rock Climbing
4-
Wuttkeho věž
Rock Climbing
5+
Wuttkeho věž
From the Erected Needle, go through the center of the wall to a block. Briefly through a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Wuttkeho věž
In the downhill wall, from the chimney between the block on the left and the overhanging… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Wuttkeho věž
To the left of "Panenský půvab", up the wall past 1 BH straight left to the edge (2nd BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Stěna nad Wuttkeho věží
Up the western edge past a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Stěna nad Wuttkeho věží
Chimneying between the block, step to the left into the wall and along the fine crack to… Rock Climbing
4-
Stěna nad Wuttkeho věží
Chimneying in the chimney between the block into the crack to the iodine stains, then up… Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna nad Wuttkeho věží
4-
Stěna nad Wuttkeho věží
On the right in the SW wall, up the chimney and wall near the southern edge (natural… Rock Climbing
4+
Křídlo netopýra
On the right in the downhill wall, up the crack, then up the wall along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Stěna nad Wuttkeho věží
On the left in the NW wall, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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