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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
5
Pastýř
To the right of the edge in the east wall, by hand crack to the small balcony and by… Rock Climbing
4+
Pastýř
From the valley side briefly by chimney to the inner space. By hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pastýř
By the chimney briefly up and to the left through the hole to the ledge. By crack to the… Rock Climbing
6
Pastýř
By the chimney in the SW wall shortly up, traverse into the wall (hourglass) and by the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pastýř
By the edge of the pillar to the block and by the wall under the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6
Pastýř
In the North wall from the hole with a crack to another hole. Left to the ring and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pastýř
From the foothill in the valley wall, to the right along the cracks to the ring. By the… Rock Climbing
3
Pastýř
By the chimney dividing the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pastýř
By the SW wall of the lower foothill, higher through the gully to the upper balcony to… Rock Climbing
4+
Pastýř
By the chimney to the block and by the winding crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Čert
From the gully to the moss-covered platform in the NE face. Right into the wall and along… Rock Climbing
3
Pastýř
By corner (wedged boulders) and crack in the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Čert
From the gully traverse to the right along the feature in the NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Čert
From the 2nd ring to the left through the fissure and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pastýř
From the gully through a narrow chimney in the North wall. By corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pastýř
Through the center of the sharp wall through the hole to the 1st ring, slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pastýř
From the 1st ring c. Makumba to the right towards Bh. and straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Čert
Left valley edge via ring to the 1st ring route Ocelová magistrála. Through it without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Čert
From the 3rd ring of Pearls of Sweat through the wall via ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čert
From the wall from right to left to the watches and to the 1st ring. Building to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čert
Crack through the center of the NW face to the 1st ring of the route Surprise at the end.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čert
From the block in the middle of the S face chimney to its end (slings). Traverse 2m to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Čert
Direttissima of the steel highway in cracks and wall directly to the ring. Then wall and… Rock Climbing
6-
Čert
From the NE edge upwards and traverse to the right to the NW face, (ring). Right and… Rock Climbing
5+
Čert
Wall close to the left edge of the NW face via ring to the crack (watches). Up to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Čert
From E from the gully to the block and through the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čert
From the valley through the corner to the saddle from the boulder diagonally to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Čert
From the upland side traverse to the SE face and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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