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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
4-
Othello
SV edge over the overhang and to the right by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Othello
On the right in the upper part, to the "Hamlet-like" chimney, layback upwards and up the…
4-
Othello
3
Othello
From the east edge, traverse 3m left to the rib and left. Summit.
2
Othello
From 'Fairy Tale', jump to the left to the summit.
2
Othello
To the right of M, jump to the summit.
4-
Othello
Left of the S edge, from the block up a fine crack to the pine tree and then up a hollow… Rock Climbing
3
Othello
At the S edge, up the rib and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Hamlet
5+
Hamlet
Start as for 'Left Crack', then right into a hole to the 1st ring. Up the crack and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Hamlet
Through the middle of the SE wall along cracks and straight up the wall over 2 rings and… Rock Climbing
5+
Hamlet
Up a crack 2m left of the S downward edge into a hole, over the overhang and again up a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hamlet
Start between the routes "Path through the Center" and "Right Crack". Up the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hamlet
From the hollow in the middle of the downward wall to the ring (added). Up the crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hamlet
Up a crack in the SW edge to its end and into a hole to the large hourglasses. Build up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hamlet
Between the tower and the promontory, start in the SE crack, follow it to a balcony and… Rock Climbing
6
Hamlet
Between the rings of the route "Messengers of Heaven", straight up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hamlet
In the right part of the NW wall, up the small wall to a platform, over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
4-
Hamlet
Through the chimney between the massif and the center of the tower wall, by stemming to… Rock Climbing
5
Hamlet
Up a crack 5m left of the S edge, short traverse to the right and again a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Hamlet
From the notch at the S edge over the overhang to the ring. Up the wall to the right into… Rock Climbing
4+
Hamlet
In the left part of the wall, up a wide crack running to the left to a balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Hamlet
A layback between the massif and the tower to a ring and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hamlet
To the right of the NE crack, up the wall along the edge to the 1st ring. Through holes… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Hamlet
from Othello Rock Climbing
4-
Terrayho věž
In the NW wall to the bench and through the right crack to the top of the fissure to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Terrayho věž
From the ledge between the left and right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Terrayho věž
Rock Climbing

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