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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Hamlet
Through the chimney from the gorge to the wedged boulder, from there by a small wall to… Rock Climbing
4+
Terrayho věž
In the NW wall to the bench and through the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Terrayho věž
Through the NW wall 5m upwards to the ledge. Through the crack diagonally to the right… Rock Climbing
5
Terrayho věž
Through the downhill crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Terrayho věž
From the boulder at the right downhill (S) edge, upwards to the left under the crack.… Rock Climbing
6-
Terrayho věž
To the right of the downhill crack, through the wall to the ledge under the overhang and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Terrayho věž
Rock Climbing
6-
Terrayho věž
Through the left part of the downhill wall to the hole. To the left to the crack and… Rock Climbing
4-
Terrayho věž
Through the chimney to the balcony, to the left to the southern edge and to the right… Rock Climbing
5+
Terrayho věž
Through the right part of the SE wall over the ring to the balcony. To the left by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Terrayho věž
Rock Climbing
3
Terrayho věž
Through an overhanging corner from E to the balcony and further through the SE chimney. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
3
Terrayho věž
Through the chimney to the balcony and traverse to the right under the large overhang. To… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4-
Terrayho věž
4+
Terrayho věž
By an edge to a ledge, traverse from the right into the chimney and to the top. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4-
Terrayho věž
Through a crack in the left part of the upper wall. Rock Climbing Vertical wall Spare Route
3
Terrayho věž
Through the chimney to the balcony and through the middle of the SE wall. Rock Climbing
3
Terrayho věž
5
Terrayho stěna
By a small wall to a ledge, from the left to the ring and directly to the right with an… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Terrayho věž
Rock Climbing
4-
Terrayho stěna
Crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Terrayho stěna
Smooth wall over the ring and left by recess to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Malý popravčí kámen
Center of the NW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Terrayho stěna
Wall along the left edge, over three o'clock directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malý popravčí kámen
Rock Climbing
5
Malý popravčí kámen
Sloping wall to the right to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Malý popravčí kámen
Rock Climbing
4+
Popravčí stěna
Smooth corner in the South wall to the ledge. Curved crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Malý popravčí kámen
Rock Climbing
3
Lupič - Galgenvogel
Sloping wall to the top. Rock Climbing

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