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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Lupič - Galgenvogel
Right uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lupič - Galgenvogel
Left edge of the uphill wall (H) further n. v. (?)
3
Lupič - Galgenvogel
Close to the right of the NE edge, wall n. v.
4-
Lupič - Galgenvogel
On the right in the West wall, overhanging edge n. v. (?)
4-
Lupič - Galgenvogel
Left edge of the uphill gully across K n. v.
5+
Popravčí stěna
On the left corner, wall across 2 overhangs and 2K n. t.
5
Popravčí stěna
Between Henkersmänner and SW chimney, wall across 2K directly to the balcony
5
Popravčí stěna
Crack in the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Popravčí stěna
From NW, wall and over overhang to the ring. Wall and overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Popravčí stěna
Crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Popravčí stěna
On the right in the sloping wall by chimney, higher up by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Popravčí stěna
Straight up the wall, past two bolts to the rappel point on the terrace. Rock Climbing
4+
Popravčí stěna
Center of the SW wall to the ring. To the right, by recess to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Popravčí kámen
Up the edge, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Popravčí kámen
Near the right downhill edge, follow a crack and then the edge to a bolt and then along… Rock Climbing
6-
Popravčí kámen
Up the left edge of the downhill wall to a small balcony. Diagonally to the right into a… Rock Climbing
5+
Popravčí kámen
Up a crack in the right part of the downhill wall to its end. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing
6
Popravčí kámen
Up the downhill route to a small balcony. Up a small crack to a bolt, back behind the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Popravčí kámen
Through the center of the west wall, past the 2nd bolt n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Popravčí kámen
Traverse from the uphill side to the left into the S wall using a hand traverse upwards… Rock Climbing
6-
Popravčí kámen
Up the left uphill edge, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Popravčí kámen
Up a crack through the center of the uphill wall (protection) to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
4-
Policejní anton
In the right part of the downhill wall, follow a crack to a saddle, then left to a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Policejní anton
In the left part of the downhill wall, follow a crack to a balcony. Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
5+
Policejní anton
Through the center of the NE face to BH the summit Rock Climbing
2
Policejní anton
From V easily to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Policejní anton
Up the wall and crack through the center of the S wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Policejní anton
4-
Policejní anton
On the left in the uphill (northern) wall, via a crack n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Along the right edge (bolt) into the crack and by it to a small balcony. To the left by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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