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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Malá ostrovská stěna
In the right part of the wall, along the edge to the balcony. By crack to the ring and by… Rock Climbing
3
Ostrovská jehlička
From the foresummit, along the west edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrovská jehlička
Left in the NW wall, short crack to the block, right along the edge to the ring, further…
6
Ostrovská jehlička
By the left pillar in the NW face to the ledge. Freely to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Malá ostrovská stěna
By the left part of the wall to the top of the buttress. By the drop and the wall under… Rock Climbing
5+
Malá ostrovská stěna
Between Ostrovska jehlicka and the wall along the edge to the small tower. By the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Ostrovská jehlička
Descent from the massif under the rappel point to the ledge and a step to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ostrovská jehlička
By wall and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Malá rohová věž
From the massif from the NE. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá rohová věž
Crack in the middle of the east face, not graded. Rock Climbing
4-
Malá rohová věž
From the balcony on the uphill side, a crack near the E edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Ostrovská jehlička
Along the crack in the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ostrovská jehlička
By chimney with stemming to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá rohová věž
From the edge to the ledge. Higher up the wall, not graded. Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrovská jehlička
Down by the edge to the ring. By rib and above the western edge.
6-
Ostrovská jehlička
Through the center of the overhanging wall via ring to the balcony (no bolts visible from…
4+
Moravanka
On the right in the face, a short crack upwards. Right along the crack, higher up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Moravanka
In the E face, a hand crack to an oblong hole to the belay. Up the face over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Moravanka
On the right on the E face, a crack and up the face n. v. (K) Rock Climbing
3
Malá rohová věž
Up the right uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Moravanka
Through the center of the valley face, a crack to a ledge and right by a small chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Malá rohová věž
From the balcony on the uphill side, traverse to the NW face. Up that n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Moravanka
Through the center of the W face using a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Hračkárna
Through the center of the second pillar (counting from the left) over BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
4+
Moravanka
To the left of the Zlatá střední cesta (Golden Middle Route) by a fine crack and left to… Rock Climbing
4+
Moravanka
Up the left edge of the valley face using a small crack to a step and then like the… Rock Climbing
5
Bušek
Up the left valley edge over K n. t.
4-
Světka
From the saddle to the right onto a ledge and diagonally to the right (ring). Up the face… Rock Climbing
4-
Světka
In the right part of the valley face, a short crack and higher up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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