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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Zadní rohová věž
From the upper wall between the towers along the edge, step right into the crack and to… Rock Climbing
5+
Zadní rohová věž
On the right on the E side near the rib to the K. Traverse the wall to the shelf and near… Rock Climbing
4+
Zadní rohová věž
Rock Climbing
3
Zadní rohová věž
Up the left crack in the S face to the pre-summit and the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zadní rohová věž
Rock Climbing
4+
Zadní rohová věž
Rock Climbing
3
Zadní rohová věž
In the right part of the E face into the chimney and through it to the platform in the S… Rock Climbing
4-
Zadní rohová věž
Through cracks along the left edge of the E face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Zadní rohová věž
5
Zadní rohová věž
5
Zadní rohová věž
To the left of the valley chimney, up the wall to the ledge. Up the wall using a crack to… Rock Climbing
2+
Zadní rohová věž
On the right side of the valley wall into the chimney and through it to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
3
Zadní rohová věž
By the NE chimney to the large plateau and by the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Zadní rohová věž
Through a crack in the left part of the valley wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Malý hrot
In the left part of the NE wall by a crack and the wall over the ring to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý hrot
In the right part of the NE wall by a crack to the sub-summit ledge and by the edge to… Rock Climbing
6-
Malý hrot
In the left part of the Údolní stěna (Valley Wall) using two fissures to a sloping step… Rock Climbing
5
Malý hrot
By the wall from the valley over the ring under the small tower. Rock Climbing
6-
Malý hrot
4-
Malý hrot
By the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý hrot
Right of the route Bez kůže (Skinless) by the wall over the ring and by a crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Malý hrot
Left of the Údolní spára (Valley Crack) by the wall (ring) and by a crack to the sub… Rock Climbing
4-
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
In the right part of the upland wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Malý hrot
From the back corner easily to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malý hrot
On the right in the Údolní stěna (Valley Wall) by a crack to the sub-summit plateau. By… Rock Climbing
4-
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
In the middle of the upland wall by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
In the left part of the Údolní stěna (Valley Wall) by a fissure to K. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
Through the center of the Údolní stěna (Valley Wall) directly to the ring c. Stůl… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
In the left part of the Náhorní stěna (Upland Wall), to the right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
On the right in the Údolní stěna (Valley Wall) by a fine crack to a wide band (K), by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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