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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
5
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
Dihedral or crack to the shelf ('clock') and crack over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
4-
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
Chimney crack in the corner (BH), higher up to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
Edge over the 'clock' to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kořenáč
In the right part of the N wall, an overhanging crack and higher up the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kořenáč
Left part of the E wall, crack to the platform St. c. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kořenáč
Through the center of the N wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kořenáč
In the left part of the downhill wall, via the edge to the ring. Right, briefly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kořenáč
From the foreground rock to the NW edge and an oblique crack to the platform. Into the W… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kořenáč
Crack and chimney in the N wall upwards to the platform and St. c. to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kořenáč
In the right part of the downhill wall, via the crack in the slab to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kořenáč
Via the open corner in the right part of the downhill wall to the small platform. Then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kořenáč
Directly from the 1st ring to the 2nd. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kořenáč
Via the crack in the West edge upwards, traverse right at the end to the balcony, and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kořenáč
To the right of the Left Downhill Path variant, up the wall to the hole, corner and crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kořenáč
Via the right downhill path to the small platform. Up the wall on the left past the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Tanvaldská věžička
From the boulders on the uphill side in the right part of the wall, near the edge n. v. … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tanvaldská věžička
Through the center of the south wall, over the roof to the hole (hourglass). Over the 2nd…
4-
Kořenáč
From the platform, via the short cracks to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kořenáč
Up the wall to the notch, along the notch to the platform (double ring), and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kořenáč
From the platform, traverse right into the chimney of the West route. Rock Climbing
5
Tanvaldská věžička
In the right part of the downhill wall, over the small balconies and through the center… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Prť
Via the slabby edge past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Prť
Left of the edge, up the wall past the bolt hanger to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Osmička
Jump from Hastrman to the top of Osmička. Rock Climbing
6-
Osmička
Via the short, uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Osmička
Via the blunt edge to the left of the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Osmička
Through the center of the wall below the overhang, past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Osmička
Along the edge of the foothills (K) to the balcony, step across to the edge (2nd K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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