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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Opomenutý masiv
From the upland side towards the Kolová věž (Wheel Tower), through the middle of the wall…
2+
Opomenutý masiv
From the passage to Špička by a short crack n. t.
3
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
Left of the Stará cesta (Old Route), SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Gasthaus Löbel - hostinec
Right of the route "Stůl štamgastů" (Regulars' Table) onto a ledge. Higher, over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Opomenutý masiv
Crack to the left of the chimney towards K. Over the overhang to a small tower (sling).… Rock Climbing
4+
Špička
On the left in the lower side by crack-chimney to the upland saddle, like the NW wall n.…
2
Špička
From the north M, jump-over n. v.
Přeskok
Špička
From the massif from the west (from Špičák) jump-over n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Špička
Through the middle of the lower wall to the 1st ring. By a small chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Špička
By a short wall from the saddle to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Špička
From S to pillars and onto a ledge, rightwards past the edge, traverse and edge n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Špička
From the pillar from NE, jump-over n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Špička
On the right in the lower wall by a small crack to the small balcony. Left to the edge to… Rock Climbing
2+
Špička
From the saddle along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kolova věž
At the left lower edge, crack to blocks to b. Wall at the edge to the balcony St. c. and… Rock Climbing
2+
Kolova věž
Right of the massif, jump n. v.
5
Kolova věž
Via ALGENA 96 to the balcony, step left and wall over K to the balcony, crack right n. v.
3
Kolova věž
J crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Kolova věž
From Špičák by chimney to the fore-rock and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Kolova věž
Short chimney to the platform. Through the middle of the wall to b. and double crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kolova věž
From the massif on the NW, a fall to the balcony. Old route like this n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kolova věž
From the NE massif, jump n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Kolova věž
S chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Kolova věž
Over jammed stones to the balcony and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Kolova věž
Through the center of the uphill wall, higher up a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Palcát
Rock Climbing
5+
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
6
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
NW edge over K n. v.
5
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
Rock Climbing
5
Ostrovský pilíř (Věž u Kořenáče)
Edge of the pillar to the platform, upwards to the balcony and wall (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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