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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Světka
On the right in the north face from the bivouac, an overhang into a crack and left along… Rock Climbing
5
Hračkárna
Up the left pillar over the BH n. t.
4+
Světka
On the right in the east face from the pointed block through a crack into a hole and up… Rock Climbing
4+
Světka
Through the center of the south face, an oblique crack to the ring. Overhanging step to a… Rock Climbing
5
Světka
In the right part of the uphill face to a step to the ring. Up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Světka
Stepping onto the edge from the right and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Světka
In the left part of the south face, over two shallow holes into a slabby face, then to… Rock Climbing
3
Světka
Through the center of the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Světka
In the right part of the south face, over three shallow holes to the ring. A pull-up into… Rock Climbing
3
Světka
Up the left part of the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Světka
Overhanging start to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Prostřední rohová věž
Up the SE wall to a balcony, onto the E edge, and to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Prostřední rohová věž
3
Prostřední rohová věž
To the right of the E edge, through a chimney and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Prostřední rohová věž
From the block in the middle of the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Prostřední rohová věž
Along the NW edge to the shelf (sling). Higher along the edge via a bolt into the ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Prostřední rohová věž
With the wall along the small crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední rohová věž
Up the small chimney on the right in the S face to the ledge and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Prostřední rohová věž
Along the SW edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Prostřední rohová věž
Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední rohová věž
Traverse from the left into the W face to the bench and up the crack to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Prostřední rohová věž
From the ring of the White Wall route to the left to the small chimney, through it over… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zadní rohová věž
Jump from the Middle Corner Tower. Rock Climbing
3
Zadní rohová věž
4+
Zadní rohová věž
Through the center of the SW face (slightly left below the rappel point) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Prostřední rohová věž
In the right part of the SW face to the boulder and along the edge to the right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Prostřední rohová věž
On the right in the S face, up the crack to the ring. From the ring, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Prostřední rohová věž
Through the center of the S face up a crack to the balcony. To the left to the small… Rock Climbing
3
Prostřední rohová věž
Up the left part of the upper wall, to the left to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zadní rohová věž

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