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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Policejní anton
A crack intersects the overhanging downhill wall. Through the center of the wall using a… Rock Climbing
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the face of the right pillar to the ring. By the face at the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Velká ostrovská stěna
To the left of the 'Bat' route by the edge to a balcony and to the right. By a notch to… Rock Climbing
3
Velká ostrovská stěna
By a corner in the right part of the face, later by a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Pillar Route' to under the overhang. Over it with difficulty to a ledge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Velká ostrovská stěna
By the face over a small ledge and ring (added later) to a ledge to the large slings of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Velká ostrovská stěna
By the left smooth edge of the pillar to a platform (slings). By a crack to the top of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block under the face into the hole and by the face to the ring. Briefly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velká ostrovská stěna
Start as for the "Obesity No Longer a Threat" route. From the block straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Velká ostrovská stěna
To the right of the start of the 'Roman Baths' route. Using a crack and the face over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block in the SW face diagonally left to the 1st ring. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the block in the SW face Diagonally right, traverse left (slings) under the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the face between the Koutova and Ukradena routes to a ledge. By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Obesity is a Threat' route to the 1st ring, from the ring by the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the valley face to the 1st ring. Diagonally right to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the NW face to a horizontal hole. Right behind the edge and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
To the left of the Left Valley Edge, by the face over the hole directly to the bolt. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
Following the 'Sokolík' route up to the SW face. Over the overhang and by a notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
In the left part of the valley face to the ring. Right into the chimney and up it, and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the 1st bolt of the "Roman Baths" route directly over the BH to the 3rd bolt of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the valley face to the ring. By the face and on the right by small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velká ostrovská stěna
By crack in the NE face to the ledge with the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the gully of the east face directly over 1 bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the gully to the right on the south edge (hourglass). By the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velká ostrovská stěna
From the corner in the NE face, using the crack and stemming over two overhangs to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velká ostrovská stěna
Through the center of the NW face to a horizontal hole. By a crack and the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá ostrovská stěna
From the wedged boulder, wall diagonally to the right. By overhanging wall to the balcony… Rock Climbing
5+
Malá ostrovská stěna
By the right part of the wall to the ring, by wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malá ostrovská stěna
Between the buttress and the wall to the wedged block. Up to the small tower and by it to… Rock Climbing
5
Malá ostrovská stěna
By crack in the indistinct corner, higher by the small tower and crack to the top. Rock Climbing

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