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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Osmička
From the valley to the right of the chimney, along the edge of the pillar over K. to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Osmička
Via the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Osmička
From the upper side, using a stem between the tower and Hastrman to a block in front of… Rock Climbing
4+
Kutnohorská stěna
From the large block under the West face, step across and traverse the crack to the right… Rock Climbing
5+
Kutnohorská stěna
Up the wall by the East edge to the ring. Up the crack and then along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kutnohorská stěna
In the left part of the valley wall, up the wide crack, then diagonally right to a faint… Rock Climbing
6
Kutnohorská stěna
In the right part of the wall, to the right of the corner, over 3Bh to the pillar and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kutnohorská stěna
On the right in the West face near the SW edge, up the wall and left to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
4
Kutnohorská stěna
In the right part of the wall, to the left of the edge, over 2 rings to the pillar and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kutnohorská stěna
Through the center of the valley wall, overhang into the gully. Higher up to the right… Rock Climbing
3
Kutnohorská stěna
On the left in the NE wall, from the wide chimney, up the wall and small corner to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kutnohorská stěna
From the balcony under the northeast wall, hand crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kutnohorská stěna
Chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Kutnohorská stěna
On the left in the West face along the cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kutnohorská stěna
From the step below the edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge and wall to the 2nd ring. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Kutnohorská stěna
Through the center of the North face over 2K n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Kutnohorská stěna
Start in the center of the West face between the wall and the block. Up the crack, then… Rock Climbing
6-
Kutnohorská stěna
On the right in the North face, up the crack and left into the hole (belay). From the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kolínské plato
Up the downhill face of the adjacent block to its summit. Step right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
4-
Kolínské plato
In the right part of the face (from Hastrman) up a crack and later a corner, not tested. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kolínské plato
Up the face to the left of the route Devítka past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kolínské plato
Start between Hastrman and the adjacent block. Up the corner with a lieback, later a… Rock Climbing
5
Kolínské plato
To the right of the Kouty path, directly up the wall to the pine tree and left to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kolínské plato
From the saddle above Osmička to the block to the ring. Up the face, higher up a rib and… Rock Climbing
5
Kolínské plato
Left of the West route up the crack in the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kolínské plato
Center of the NW face past the ring, not tested.
2+
Kolínské plato
From the south side from the left to the corner and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kolínské plato
On the left in the S face up the hand crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kolínské plato
On the left in the W face up a shallow crack to a step. Up the chimney between the block… Rock Climbing
5
Kolínské plato
On the right in the S face up the crack around the pillar to a ring. Up the face, as… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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