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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Korouhvička
Center of the face up the crack (clock) and right under the flake to the edge to the ring… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Korouhvička
Up the rib in the corner to the ledge and left up the face, as above.
4-
Korouhvička
Center of the face up the crack (clock) and up over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Korouhvička
4+
Korouhvička
Up the smooth face past the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Korouhvička
Up the edge past the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Korouhvička
Up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kočičí stěna (Kovadlina)
Along the edge and up the face past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kočičí stěna (Kovadlina)
With the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kočičí stěna (Kovadlina)
Up the face over the overhang (sling) and ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kočičí stěna (Kovadlina)
From NW, right up the face n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kočičí stěna (Kovadlina)
Up the face (1st ring), left into the crack and along it to the 2nd ring. Up the face… Rock Climbing
4-
Chlebník
From the ring, directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Chlebník
Up the face along the edge (left of route V) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kočičí stěna (Kovadlina)
Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Chlebník
Through the center of the SW face over the nose to the ring. Briefly up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
6-
Chlebník
In the left part of the face, up the chimney and right to the ring under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Hombre
Over the overhang to the 1st ring/bolt (K) and up the wall to a hole (2nd ring/bolt K).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Hombre
Up the wall and a small chimney, passing the pine tree to a ring/bolt. Directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hombre
Up the SW edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hombre
In the right part of the main wall, briefly to the 1st ring/bolt. Up a crack (protection)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hombre
Via a rib to the right of the Valley Crack to its end and a ring/bolt. Over an overhang… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Hombre
Up the left part of the main wall, passing a ring/bolt into a hole towards the fixed… Rock Climbing
5+
Hombre
Up the edge to a ring/bolt and then left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hombre
In the left part, up the overhanging wall into a corner to a ring/bolt. Up the crack in… Rock Climbing
5
Hombre
To the left of the Valley Crack. Up the hand crack, which widens higher up, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hombre
Through the middle of the valley wall, diagonally right and upwards to a ring/bolt. Above… Rock Climbing
5
Hombre
Up the corner to the saddle and then up the crack by the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dráteník
On the right side of the V wall, up the right-hand tapering chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Dráteník
Through the middle of the V wall, passing a ring/bolt (K). Rock Climbing

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