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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Široký roh
In the SE wall from the gully. By wall to the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Široký roh
In the south wall to the large block "Escape in Chains". Rightwards up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Široký roh
To the right of the wall, by gully over blocks to the crack. Up it to the platform and… Rock Climbing
5+
Široký roh
Through the middle of the uphill wall using cracks and higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Široký roh
Rock Climbing
2+
Široký roh
From the uphill side, by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce pokladu
From the elevated platform in the lower wall, left into the chimney between Nuget. By the… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce pokladu
From the gully in the left part of the S (South) face, up the overhanging corner to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážce pokladu
From the gully in the S (South) face, by stemming to the edge (clock). Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce pokladu
Through the middle of the lower wall to the K (ring). Up the wall under the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Strážce pokladu
By the left lower edge diagonally left to the K (ring). Up the wall and higher up by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dvojplošník
Up the crack near the W (West) edge to the end (ring) and by the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojplošník
By the south edge, higher up left over the saddle to the top (can also go directly by the… Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojplošník
Up the wall near the edge left of the Palba Pepy Alba route, past the ring into the hole.… Rock Climbing
5
Rozeklaný kámen
Right of the Staré cesty (Old Routes) to the middle of the wall, then left to the edge,… Rock Climbing
2+
Dvojplošník
From S (South) slightly between the peaks. Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojplošník
Up the crack in the middle of the lower wall, past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojplošník
Up the lower chimney from NW to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rozeklaný kámen
From the gully between Rozeklaný kamen (Split Rock) and Nedělní věž (Sunday Tower), hand… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rozeklaný kámen
From the "Staré cesty" (Old Routes) triangle, right into the W (West) face to the edge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rozeklaný kámen
By the lower edge onto the shelf. Left past the edge to the 1st ring. By the edge into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Rozeklaný kámen
Up the overhanging wall into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Rozeklaný kámen
In the right part of the S (South) face, through the hole, up to the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rozeklaný kámen
Left of the Ferule route, hand crack to the 1st ring. Over the overhang to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Rozeklaný kámen
Up the Ferule route crack to the sling, right under the big overhang and straight through… Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaný kámen
Right on the E side, crack to the sub-peak and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Rozeklaný kámen
From the SE to the rocky terrace and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Rozeklaný kámen
Wide crack from the S side to the recess and an overhanging crack to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Rozeklaný kámen
From the S, from the gully, crack over the overhang, higher up the wall, left to the edge… Rock Climbing
4-
Rozeklaný kámen
Right on the SE side, up the wall to the sub-peak, by a fall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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