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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Císařské stěny
Along the sharp edge across the ring to the ledge under Komorník. Along the SE edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Císařské stěny
Over the overhang into the crack, then higher up a fissure onto the ledge. Rock Climbing
4+
Císařské stěny
To the left of the West edge, up the wall across Bh to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Císařské stěny
Along the edge to the left of c. Karlovo pousmání (Karlo's smile) across the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Císařské stěny
To the right of the "Cikorka" route, up a prominent corner to the ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Císařské stěny
Through the center of the wall to the left of c. Heike's edge to a small ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Císařské stěny
Along the edge to the left under Císař (Emperor) across the ring to the ledge. Rock Climbing
2+
Komorník
Chimney in the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Komorník
In the valley face (from 'Císař' - Emperor) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Komorník
Face to the right of the north chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Komorník
Long horizontal traverse from the east edge to the abseil point. Rock Climbing
3
Komorník
Left of the Valley Chimney, with the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Komorník
Left of Piskoř's route, up the face to the ledge to the 'clock'. Right, up the face and… Rock Climbing
6-
Komorník
Face from 'Císař' (Emperor) to the platform. From the right edge, face to the ring and… Rock Climbing
4+
Komorník
Face to the right of the edge to the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Komorník
Center of the south face upwards, higher up through a fine crack and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Komorník
Wide chimney from the uphill side to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Komorník
see Císařské stěny (Emperor's Walls). Rock Climbing
4-
Krteček
Face to the left of the 'Krtek a Šťoura' route, n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Krteček
Through the middle of the west wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Krteček
By the left crack in the south wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Krteček
Up the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krteček
Left crack in the north face, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Krteček
Northeast edge, n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Augustinova věžička
Through the middle of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Krteček
By the right crack in the south wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Krteček
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Krteček
By a crack in the middle of the east wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Augustinova věžička
On the right in the north wall diagonally right to the edge. Up the slabby wall along the… Rock Climbing
6-
Augustinova věžička
Through the middle of the south wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing

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