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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Rozeklaný kámen
On the E side, middle crack and chimney to the sub-peak and traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaný kámen
Far right on the E side, chimney to the block and NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Rozeklaný kámen
Left on the E side, crack (start via the SE route) and a small notch to the SE edge and… Rock Climbing
2
Rozeklaný kámen
From the S chimney (behind the slender pillar) to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Rozeklaný kámen
To the left of the Old Route, chimneying to the sub-peak, traverse n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Rozeklaný kámen
Along the edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
From the gully between Rozeklaný kámen and Nedělní věž. In the right part of the wall,… Rock Climbing
4-
Nedělní věž
By standing on the left upland (E) edge, over the overhang to the ledge and along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
Through the center of the S face over 2K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaný kámen
6-
Nedělní věž
In the valley wall, from the block to the right to the 1st ring. Chimneying to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Nedělní věž
In the right part of the N face, crawl through the hole to the ledge on the S face.… Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
On the left in the valley wall, from the corner to the right to the rib and along it to… Rock Climbing
4+
Nedělní věž
On the left in the valley wall, through the corner crack all the way to the big hole.… Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
From the boulder, through the wall into the crack and to the ring. Then under the… Rock Climbing
5
Nedělní věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Nedělní věž
From the upland side from the hole in the right part of the wall, along the rib… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Nedělní věž
Wall to the right of the NW edge. Start from the block diagonally left upwards to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Nedělní věž
From the right onto the South edge to the clock, (by building up) upwards, left up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
Up a fissure through the center of the SW wall 3m upwards and up the wall to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
From the gorge between Rozeklaný kámen and Nedělní věž (Sunday Tower), up the wall across… Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
From the ring, directly to the top through the center of the wall Rock Climbing
6-
Nedělní věž
SW edge across two rings to the balcony (ring). Overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Nedělní věž
Overhanging wall to the left of the Indian Summer route to the ring. Directly across the… Rock Climbing
5+
Nedělní věž
Through the center of the SW wall to the crack going to the left, along that to the end,… Rock Climbing
4-
Nedělní věž
After the step across, directly along the edge n. v.
6-
Císařské stěny
Through the center of the wall across the ring to the ledge under Císař. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Nedělní věž
Between Rozeklaný kámen (Split Rock) and the right part of the NE wall upwards, step… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Císařské stěny
Start 4m to the right of the sharp edge (Svatební cesta - Wedding Route). Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Nedělní věž
After the step across, to the right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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