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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Augustinova věžička
In the left part of the uphill wall diagonally left over a small overhang and along the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lampa
Briefly via the route Silver or Gold. Traverse left to the 1st bolt. Up the wall and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Lampa
Through the middle of the SW wall by a crack briefly upwards and left into a wide crack,… Rock Climbing
4+
Lampa
Left of the corner along the edge, left to a chimney and up it to a ledge. Over the… Rock Climbing
5
Lampa
On the left in the SW wall by a hand crack, then along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Lampa
On the right on the slope, up the SW wall to the pine tree and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Lampa
On the right in the wall from the slope, by a corner crack and then over an overhang to… Rock Climbing
6
Lampa
Through the middle of the overhanging wall by a crack and corner to the bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lampa
On the left in the overhanging wall by a chimney to its end and right to the point. Over… Rock Climbing
6-
Lampa
Along the NW edge to a sloping ledge to the 1st bolt. Left along the edge and a corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Hraniční věž
Up the left crack in the South wall and left to the ledge. Up the overhanging Southwest… Rock Climbing
3
Hraniční věž
Via the crack in the right part of the South wall to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hraniční věž
Up the crack in the right part of the south face to the edge, then follow it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Hraniční věž
In the recess in the left part of the north face to the edge and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hraniční věž
From the valley via the West edge (1st bolt) to the climbing holds. Left up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Masiv u Kubusu
Through the gully and the deep chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hraniční věž
Center of the upper wall (route starts from ... ). Rock Climbing
4+
Hraniční věž
Up the narrow South wall and over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hraniční věž
Rock Climbing
3
Hraniční věž
Via a crack along the South edge to the ledge and higher up the wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Masiv u Kubusu
Directly over the overhang to the 1st bolt of the "Dietářů" route. Rock Climbing
5
Masiv u Kubusu
Through the center of the pillar past the 2nd bolt to the summit. The route starts from… Rock Climbing
3
Masiv u Kubusu
In the right part of the massif into the wide chimney and up the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing
4+
Masiv u Kubusu
Via the crack to the balcony and around the pine tree along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Masiv u Kubusu
Through the center of the wall, via an overhang to the left, then along a crack and an… Rock Climbing
4+
Masiv u Kubusu
Via the double crack past the climbing holds to the balcony. Up the honeycomb wall past… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Masiv u Kubusu
Through the wide chimney in the middle of the valley wall over a wedged block to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Masiv u Kubusu
Up the narrow pillar past the bolt to the summit. The route starts from the right or left… Rock Climbing

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