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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Masiv u Kubusu
Directly via an overhanging start into the "Crack-Chimney" and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kubus
From the rocky corner in the left part of the South wall, traverse the overhang into the… Rock Climbing
5
Kubus
In the valley wall, to the left along a wide ledge (climbing holds) below the crack.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kubus
From the corner to the crack, along the edge to the small balcony and with a chimneying… Rock Climbing
4-
Kubus
In the South wall, to the right into the corner and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kubus
Through the center of the South wall via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kubus
On the left in the valley wall from the large ledge, diagonally left under the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Kubus
In the middle of the overhanging wall from the wide ledge wall directly (clock, ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kubus
On the right in the overhanging wall with cracks under the small overhang. From the left… Rock Climbing
3
Kubus
2
Kubus
From the south. Step over or jump (1) to the top.
2+
5
Kubus
In the narrow South wall along cracks to the ring. At the edge to the balcony and further… Rock Climbing
5
Kubus
Right of the Southern Route with a crack to the ring and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
4-
Mrkvový masiv
Right overhanging edge (W) to the small balcony and wall over the ring to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
5
Mrkvový masiv
North edge under the summit overhang. Directly over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Mrkvový masiv
North crack to the ledge and from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Skála Rudolfa Rabase
On the right in the NW wall with a crack over the ledge to the balcony and along the edge… Rock Climbing
2
Mrkvový masiv
From the uphill (S) side. Rock Climbing
5+
Skála Rudolfa Rabase
Via the "Na památku Aničky a Rudolfa" route to the ledge, then right along the wall over… Rock Climbing
?
Mrkvový masiv
Right overhanging edge (W) to the small balcony, traverse left over the small ledges and… Rock Climbing
5
Mrkvový masiv
With the corner to the balcony. Over the ring along the blunt edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Zalesněná věž
Via the Ples upírů route to the ring, right to the edge of the pillar and along it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Skála Rudolfa Rabase
Through the middle of the NW wall to the left to the ledge. Then with a crack over the… Rock Climbing
5+
Skála Rudolfa Rabase
South edge (clock) over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zalesněná věž
Start approx. 4m left of the "South Wall" with a crack to the 1st ring. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zalesněná věž
From the balcony under the NE edge via the overhanging crack and higher up always along… Rock Climbing

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