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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Žežická jehla
From the valley over the overhang and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Žežická stěna
In the right part of the wall, over the overhang by the rib to the ring. Along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Žežická stěna
By the fissure, higher up by the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Žežická stěna
In the west wall from the left or right into the crack and by that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Žežická stěna
In the left part of the wall, by the crack to the balcony and up the wall over the ring… Rock Climbing
4-
Cestářův domeček
5+
Strážce kamenky
On the left in the V wall. Up the wall to 1st K. Using the crack and overhang to 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Strážce kamenky
By the crack under the abseil point n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce kamenky
In the middle of the V wall by the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce kamenky
To the left of the chimney, up the wall to the ledge and diagonally to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce kamenky
Through the corner diagonally to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce kamenky
By the crack through the center of the narrow pillar to the ledge to 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Strážce kamenky
In the right part of the V wall. Up the overhanging wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Borkova věž
A crack along the edge to the ledge. Left, another crack to the ledge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4-
Borkova věž
Right in the E wall, a crack, higher up along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce kamenky
Right downstream chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce kamenky
On the right in the descending wall to the point (belay), then up the wall over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce kamenky
On the left in the wall, using the crack to K. Left to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Strážce kamenky
In the center of the W wall, a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce kamenky
Left of the chimney over round bellies to K. Further to the ledge and left over a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Strážce kamenky
Left downstream chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Borkova věž
Right in the downstream wall, a crack to the ring. Upwards and an overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Borkova věž
Right chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Borkova věž
In the left part of the downstream wall of the narrow pillar, over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Borkova věž
From the boulder in the NW wall, right to the ring and along the edge, a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Borkova věž
From the gully between Wolf's Lair and Borkova Tower, a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Borkova věž
Left downstream chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Borkova věž
Crack in the NW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Jezevčí doupě
Left in the SE wall, left into the hole and traverse to the corner to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
3
Jezevčí doupě
Through the center of the SE wall up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing

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