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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Prachatická věž
Center of the southeast face, over a hollow-sounding flake to a short crack. Up the face… Rock Climbing
5+
Prachatická věž
In the narrow valley south face to a ledge with a bolt. Up the face, then up the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Prachatická věž
On the right in the southeast face, up subtle cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Prachatická věž
On the left in the southeast face, up a crack to a balcony. Higher up along the edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Malá trpasličí věž
Central face from Cleopatra to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Malá trpasličí věž
From the right part of Cleopatra, a jump over from the balcony, n. v.
5+
Malá trpasličí věž
On the left side of the North face, a short crack and then up the face to the right to a… Rock Climbing
2+
Malá trpasličí věž
From the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá trpasličí věž
Follow the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malá trpasličí věž
On the right side of the Northeast face, a short crack to a step and then up the face to… Rock Climbing
4-
Malá trpasličí věž
To the left of the Southeast crack, to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá trpasličí věž
Along the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná věž
Ascend the Northeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rozeklaná věž
From the corner upwards, right to the cracks and up them to the ring. Under the overhang… Rock Climbing
6
Rozeklaná věž
From the Northwest circle of the route, go right along the wall to the ledge at the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Rozeklaná věž
In the Northwest face, follow the crack to the circle. Then go left, following a groove… Rock Climbing
2+
Rozeklaná věž
From the block on the East edge, go right to a ledge and then continue up a crack to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Rozeklaná věž
On the North face, follow a thin crack to a ledge and another crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rozeklaná věž
Up the crack to the overhanging corner and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rozeklaná věž
In the center of the pillar, up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rozeklaná věž
To the left in the S wall, along the edge to the ring. Up the wall into the recess of the… Rock Climbing
6
Rozeklaná věž
To the right of the W corner under the large overhang to the 1st ring. Up the wide… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rozeklaná věž
From the ring of the Chain Route, up the wall to the left and through the recess to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Rozeklaná věž
From the corner under the overhanging block in the S wall to the small pillar and up it… Rock Climbing
3
Rozeklaná věž
Up the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rozeklaná věž
From the corner under the overhanging pillar (S wall) into the hole over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Rozeklaná věž
On the left part of the pillar, along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rozeklaná věž
Freely onto the ledge of the overhanging block, belay, step left to the ring, then along… Rock Climbing
2+
Rozeklaná věž
Left of the E edge, up the crack to the ledge. Up the south wall into the chimney and up… Rock Climbing
4-
Rozeklaná věž
Up the crack in the E wall of the adjacent pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing

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