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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Komáří věž
In the right part of the east wall, chimney in its rear part to the right into the window… Rock Climbing
3
Komáří věž
In the left part of the E wall, crack to the balcony, over the overhang and diagonally to… Rock Climbing
5
Komáří věž
From the east in the gorge between the massif and the tower, a long, narrowing chimney to… Rock Climbing
4-
Komár
From W wall along the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Komáří věž
In the right part of the E wall between the massif and the tower, winding crack to its… Rock Climbing
2+
Komár
From S to the step and left to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Komáří věž
Through the middle of the W wall of the lowest pillar, over 2k. to its top (belay Bh).… Rock Climbing
5+
Komáří věž
In the right part of the N wall, over the overhang directly to the shelf. Slab to the… Rock Climbing
5
Komáří věž
Start in the NE part of the tower. Through the middle of the S wall to the large shelf.… Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří věž
Start the same as Black Trap and into the hole on the right to the ring. Arbitrarily NE… Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří věž
From the gully in the middle of the SW wall, corner and crack to the shelf of the Old… Rock Climbing
6-
Komáří věž
By the Old Route to the balcony or a large boulder. Wall to a fine rib and along it to… Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří věž
From the balcony St. c. through the middle of the S wall to the NW peak. Rock Climbing
4+
Komáří věž
Corner to the left of "Moles' Route" to the holes, left side of the pillar over 1st K. to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Komáří věž
Through the middle of the NW wall to the shelf and along it to the left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Komáří věž
From the gully in the left part of the SW wall, overhanging crack to the shelf to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří věž
Right part of the S wall to a spacious balcony. Chimney between the peaks upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Šídlo
A disagreement between the Mosquito Tower and the Awl to a small balcony towards the ring… Rock Climbing
5
Šídlo
Up the downhill face over steps to the ledge and then over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Komáří věž
3m to the right of the "valley route" along the right valley edge, crack and edge (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž posledního slanění
Along the left downhill edge, over the overhang into the crack, then up it and the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Věž posledního slanění
In the left part of the east face, over a small rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Věž posledního slanění
Briefly like the Dunivá cesta route and traverse right to the left downhill edge and like… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prďoch
From the northwest, with a chimney and crack to the summit Rock Climbing
4-
Věž posledního slanění
Up the left upland edge to the balcony by the hourglasses and right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Věž posledního slanění
Crack in the west face, left to the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Věž posledního slanění
In the right part of the upland face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prďoch
Northwest crack along the edge to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Prďoch
Northwest blunt edge under the overhang (bolt) and then along the edge (hourglass) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Prďoch
From the upland side, traverse and then up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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