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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Stínovec
From the gully between Stínovec and Stínová palice along the SE edge up the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stínovec
From the foreland of the south face up the overhanging wall along the right edge over 2K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Stínovec
From the foreland on the south side up the crack to the balcony. To the right to the SE… Rock Climbing
6-
Stínovec
From the foreland up the crack to the large ledge in the south face. Briefly to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Stínovec
From the south foreland to the spacious balcony. Traverse left to the west edge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Stínovec
Up the crack in the east face to its interruption, along the edge to the right for about… Rock Climbing
5+
Stínovec
Up the NE edge of the East tower to 2/3 height and diagonally right n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Kareta
From the valley from the SW edge, up the wall over K to the balcony and via the "With… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Kareta
From the gorge to the left of the NW edge up the wall over the clock and K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Kareta
From the valley from the NW edge up the gully to the balcony and up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Stínovec
From the north or south (from the foreland) up the chimney under the overhang and over it… Rock Climbing
4+
Kareta
Up the NW edge over the clock and K to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kareta
To the left of the "South Shadow" route up the wall and the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kareta
Directly up the east face Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kareta
5m to the right of the "Grey Depths" route up the wall over the ring and the corner n. v.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kareta
Up the wall in the right part of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Kareta
From the NE edge diagonally right to the wedged boulder and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Kareta
From the gorge from the north through a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Zkušební stěna
Start completely right in the upland wall. From a wide chimney, between the upland wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Zkušební stěna
Right north crack to the summit Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Zkušební stěna
Left north crack to the summit Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Asiat
Left of the route "Hanoi desing" through the wall over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Asiat
SE edge of the massif (clocks) to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Zkušební stěna
Edge to the 1st and 2nd BH upwards and over the summit overhang with a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zkušební stěna
At the edge to the clocks, to the ledge and left into the crack, through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zkušební stěna
Through the wall and overhang to the flake, use it to the step and over the ring through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zkušební stěna
Right of the route Oslava strachu by a chimney to the wedged boulder on the terrace … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Zkušební stěna
Through the wall over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zkušební stěna
Right of the wedged boulder by opposition into the wall (R), then to the ledge to the 1st… Rock Climbing

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