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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Blázen
To the left of the "North Crack" route, chimneying and up the wall over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Blázen
Rock Climbing
7
Blázen
In the south face, over the hourglasses and ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Blázen
In the chimney between Sedátko and the tower (also by falling from the platform in the S… Rock Climbing
5
Blázen
In the chimney between Sedátko and Blázen into a narrow overhanging crack and through it… Rock Climbing Danger Spare Route
4-
Blázen
Over the overhang into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Blázen
In the W face, up the wide crack to the overgrown ledge. Up the wall past the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Blázen
From the N, up the left edge over two belay points. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Blázen
Up the SW edge to the ledge and along the edge past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blázen
On the left in the SW face, up the oblique notch to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Blázen
Up the upland wall or chimney to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sedátko
Right of the North Crack, via an overhanging face over 2 bolts to the ledge, into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sedátko
Via the right crack in the N face over an overhang to the balcony. Left and via a crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Sedátko
From the NE crack to the ring. Overhang from the left to the ledge (2nd dQ) and across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Sedátko
To the left of the Kapsář route, up the wall to the ring and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sedátko
Via a crack and higher up the face near the edge to the west foreland. Via the West or… Rock Climbing
6-
Sedátko
In the left part of the E face, up the crack over the overhang to the ring. Left on the… Rock Climbing
5
Sedátko
Over an overhang into the left crack in the N face. Via that to the balcony, traverse… Rock Climbing
5
Želví věž
Rounded, overhanging at the start, via the SE edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Želví věž
Via the S route to the ledge, left and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sedátko
Jump from the NW edge of the Blazen summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sedátko
Overhang as in the route Direct West route, short traverse to the left and via the recess… Rock Climbing
5
Sedátko
From the boulder to the west foreland, overcome the overhang into the face and along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Sedátko
Overhang from Blazen to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Sedátko
Via the wide chimney between Blazen and the tower to the platform in the S face. Via a… Rock Climbing
4-
Želví věž
Via the S face and over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Balkánský pilíř
Through the center of the south face to a hole. Over the K face to a saddle and freely, n… Rock Climbing
3
Želví věž
Via a wide crack in the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Želví věž
From the valley to the ledge to the crack and via that to the bolt. Right and along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Želví věž
Via a brittle face to a crack and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing

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