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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Továrna
From the edge to the 1st K. Further along the edge, higher up the wall to the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Továrna
Left in the S wall by the dihedral and crack to the pre-summit. Descent into the chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Továrna
Through the left SW corner to the platform of the Old Route. That way n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Továrna
Through the crack in the S wall to the platform of the Old Route, that way n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Továrna
Through the center of the S wall, through the corner to the platform of the Old Route.… Rock Climbing
2
Továrna
Left of the route, Break, up the wall over the ledge to the platform of the Old Route and… Rock Climbing
4-
Továrna
Left of the SW corner, up the wall to the crack. Through the crack to the chimney and to… Rock Climbing
5
Sokol
Crack in the narrow North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sokol
Up the NW edge to the ledge to the circle. Diagonally to the right into the shallow crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Sokol
Up the wall through the holes and crack directly to the circle of the diagonal route.… Rock Climbing
2+
Továrna
Edge n. v. pillar. Transition to the platform and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Továrna
By the left chimney in the upper (E) wall to the platform. From this tactic, St. c. n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Továrna
From the east through the short chimney to the inner platform. Passage through the… Rock Climbing
6-
Sokol
Up the diagonal wall from left diagonally to the right to the hole in the middle of the… Rock Climbing
6-
Sokol
From the South from the chimney up the wall to the left to the edge to the circle. Along… Rock Climbing
5+
Sokol
Up the South overhanging edge across the clock to the circle. Up the own edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Podesta Sokola
Crack n. t.
5+
Podesta Sokola
Overhanging through the crack to the edge and that n. t.
4+
Podesta Sokola
Crack to the foreland n. t.
5+
Podesta Sokola
Up the wall across K n. t.
5+
Podesta Sokola
Up the edge of the foreland (chimney between Sokol and the foreland) across K n. t.
4+
Pikolík
From the rock window in the West wall, up the overhanging corner to the ledge, higher up… Rock Climbing
5
Pikolík
Through the middle of the South wall through the hole, higher to the left to the circle.… Rock Climbing
4-
Pikolík
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pikolík
Up the NE edge easily to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Velká tovární věž
Right crack to the block. Wall by the edge to the large ledge and frosting under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velká tovární věž
Left crack to the block, from there into the inner chimney and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velká tovární věž
To the right of St. c. wall over the ring to the pillar. Fall from the construction to… Rock Climbing
5+
Velká tovární věž
In the right part of the W wall into the left crack to the ring of the Večer kruté slávy… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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