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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Trpaslík
In the left part of the upper wall, overhanging corner to the right onto a ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Trpaslík
From the boulder, step over to the south wall and diagonally to the left onto the balcony… Rock Climbing
6
Trpaslík
Along the left south route to the balcony. To the right behind the edge and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Trpaslík
A prominent, several times broken corner crack, in the left part of the south wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Trpaslík
Along the NE edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Trpaslík
Through the middle of the south wall onto the small pillar and along it to the ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Trpaslík
To the right of the NW edge, above the north wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Povalečská věžička
Initially up the overhanging lieback n. v. (no view?).
3
Povalečská věžička
From the roof. ledge in the south wall with the wall above.
3
Bedla tygrovaná
Up the face in the left part of the NW face n. v. (no view?). Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Bedla tygrovaná
From NW, through the hole in the overhang to the bh. on the S edge and up it n. v. (no… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Bedla tygrovaná
Up the face in the right part of the SE face n. v. (no view?). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bedla tygrovaná
Up the wall in the middle of the valley-side NE wall over the ring directly n. v. (no… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Bedla tygrovaná
Up the crack in the middle of the upland SW face n. v. (no view?). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bedla tygrovaná
Up the SW face along the rounded edge n. v. (no view?). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bedla tygrovaná
Up the face in the middle of the SE face n. v. (no view?). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Eliáš
Up the western edge over the ring n. v. (no view?). Rock Climbing
2+
Eliáš
The tower divides into two halves by a chimney. Up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Eliáš
Up the center of the northern (valley side) wall via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Poustevna
Start up the small pillar in the SW wall to the ledge. Up the crack (belay) to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Eliáš
Up the center of the northern (valley side) wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Poustevna
From the 'spitzen blok' on the valley side, up the crack and wall to K. Traverse to the…
3
Poustevna
From v. clock on the NE wall to the ledge to the right and up the corner to the v.…
5+
Poustevna
From the pointed block on the valley side, up the crack and wall to the 1st K. Up the…
4+
Poustevna
From v. clock to the NE edge over K to the v. balcony via a crack, later up the edge n. t…
5
Poustevna
On the left in the N wall, diagonally right to the 1st K, up the edge over 2 large holes…
5+
Poustevna
On the left in the SW wall, over 2 pillars to K. Up the wall to the crack and through it…
4+
Poustevna
From the slope to the right in the SW wall and up the diagonal crack n. t. (no through).
3
Ukloněná
2+
Ukloněná
From E, up the wall over 2 steps, then up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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