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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Česneková jehla
Along the left valley edge to a ring. Along the edge and wall diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Česneková jehla
As Valley var. Old route to the shelf. Up the wall via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Česneková jehla
Along the SE edge (start from the left) directly up to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Česneková jehla
From the massif, descend via the gully to the balcony. Step over to the SE edge and along… Rock Climbing
6-
Májová věž
In the center of the valley wall, corner to the overhang and crack to the ring. To the… Rock Climbing
3
Májová věž
Follow the old path to Leyde's Tower to the saddle, traverse right into the center of the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Májová věž
From the massif, jump to the pinnacle and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Májová věž
Like the Chimney Route to the ledge. Diagonally left up the wall and crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing
2+
Májová věž
Follow the old path to Leyde's Tower to the saddle, up the right wall to the plateau and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Leydeho věž
From the uphill edge, along the West face, diagonally right to the ring. Up the wall over… Rock Climbing
5+
Leydeho věž
From the NW side, up the wall and crack to the pillar in the valley wall. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Májová věž
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the overgrown ledge and right to… Rock Climbing
5+
Leydeho věž
In the West face, crack to the pillar. Like 'Cesta za bukem' (Path behind the beech) to… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left of the NW edge, up the wall over 11 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Leydeho věž
Like the West Face to the pillar in the valley wall. Diagonally right up the wall over… Rock Climbing
4-
Leydeho věž
From the valley side via a crack and chimney to the saddle between Leyde's Tower and May… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Leydeho věž
Follow the old path to the saddle, then descend slightly and traverse right into the NE… Rock Climbing
4+
Leydeho věž
From the uphill side, ascend the right edge and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Via the NW edge over 3 rings directly to the 3rd ring of the 'Crown' route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left along the NE edge, up the wall right to the edge (ring) and right via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Velký Pravčický kužel
Right of the Old Route via a corner crack (crossing the North Route) to the ring of the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left in the N wall directly to the ring, up the wall and small pillar to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Like the Old Route 4m up, traverse right and under the roof-like overhang step into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Velký Pravčický kužel
In the middle of the N wall directly over the 1st and 2nd rings and diagonally right the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Velký Pravčický kužel
In the left part of the valley wall directly over 3 rings to the 3rd ring of the Memorial… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Velký Pravčický kužel
In the middle of the valley wall over a ring, higher up first right, then left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Velký Pravčický kužel
From the hour-glass above the 3rd ring, up the wall over a ring, higher diagonally left… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Velký Pravčický kužel
Via the Memorial Route free climbing (2 rings), then up the wall over 3 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left in the valley wall from the boulder, up the wall to the ring. By aid climbing and to… Rock Climbing
9+
Velký Pravčický kužel
About 4m left of the Valley Route, directly up the wall over 5 rings into the exit crack… Rock Climbing

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