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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Velký Pravčický kužel
Like the Approach variant of the Memorial Route to the 2nd ring. Directly up the wall… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left in the upper wall via the wall (ring) and edge (2nd ring) to the ring of the … Rock Climbing
5+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Right of the SW edge via a crack to the overhang, traverse right, via a crack and left to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Like the Valley Route to the additional ring. Via the wall and edge over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing
6
Velký Pravčický kužel
From the platform via an indistinct edge (2nd ring) and slightly left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Velký Pravčický kužel
Right in the valley wall via a crack to the ring (subsequently placed). Slightly left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Pravčický roh
From the massif, descend through a narrow chimney and jump to the pre-summit. Jump or… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký Pravčický kužel
Along the S edge under the overhang, left via a small pillar and wall to the crack. Wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký Pravčický kužel
As a variation of the Old Route up to the hour-glass, left up the wall over the ring to… Rock Climbing
4+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Through the crack in the plateau pillar and up the wall to the abseil ring. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Velký Pravčický kužel
Left of the Old Route, up the small pillar to the balcony and right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Pravčický roh
Left of the Old Route to the start of the overhanging crack (hourglasses), diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pravčický roh
In the middle of the valley wall, up the wall below the overhanging hawk-like crack and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pravčický roh
From the East, between the tower and the massif, into the gorge. From the block, by… Rock Climbing
4+
Pravčický roh
In the middle of the valley wall from the end of the notch, traverse left. Up the corner… Rock Climbing
5
Pravčický roh
From the edge over the overhang and via a crack to the slab. Right through the chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Pravčický roh
From Velký Pravčický kužel (Great Pravčice Cone) via the hawk-like chimney to the plateau… Rock Climbing
6-
Claryho klobouk
Left in the gorge, by stemming right to the ring. Directly up the wall to the ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
3
Pravčický roh
Like the Old Route through the chimney, higher up left through a crack to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
5
Claryho klobouk
In the N wall near Clary's Tower, through the chimney to the ledge. Up the right crack,… Rock Climbing
3
Claryho klobouk
Like var. Old Route to the saddle. Pass through it and up left to the overgrown ascending… Rock Climbing
3
Claryho klobouk
Through the stemming chimney to the saddle. Up the wall to the hourglasses, left along… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Claryho věž
In the middle of the E wall via a crack (ring) and up the wall to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Claryho věž
Up the left valley edge over 3 rings to the 3rd ring of the route "Obrovský žert" (Giant… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Claryho klobouk
Descend from the massif and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Claryho věž
In the upper wall (by building up) over the overhang to the 1st ring, up the wall and… Rock Climbing
4-
Claryho klobouk
From the gorge, traverse by stemming between the tower and the massif to the ledge. Like… Rock Climbing
3
Claryho klobouk
From the massif, descend to the ledge. Overhang at the right upper edge, by building up… Rock Climbing
4+
Claryho věž
To the right in the upper wall to the balcony and (by building up) to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Yetti
From NE by chimney between the fore-rock and the massif upwards and by chimney to the top. Rock Climbing

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