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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Yetti
From the valley side, by chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up as the Old… Rock Climbing
3
Yetti
From the massif from NW, descend by chimney to a large overgrown terrace. Descend by… Rock Climbing
5+
Jehla Pravčického dolu
Like Academic Crack upwards (or descent from the massif into the upper wall to the wedged… Rock Climbing
6-
Jehla Pravčického dolu
Right of the S edge, by corner and wall to the boulder. Left into the wall (1st ring).… Rock Climbing
5+
Jehla Pravčického dolu
SW chimney to the wedged boulders between the tower and the massif. Sloping crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Jehla Pravčického dolu
From the massif from the W around the pine tree, descent to the ledge. Step over and to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Jehla Pravčického dolu
From NW from the massif, descend to the plateau and by jump to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jehla Pravčického dolu
Center of the SE face to the plateau, over the overhang into the gully and onto the… Rock Climbing
5+
Jehla Pravčického dolu
Like Rychlovka to the large balcony. Right crack in the SE face over the overhang, then… Rock Climbing
3
Jehla Pravčického dolu
From the massif to the saddle and by a short edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jehla Pravčického dolu
To the right in the SE face, by chimney to the large balcony in the massif. Left crack in… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Gabrieliny věže - západní
Like the Northwest crack to the start of the traverse. Wall diagonally left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Gabrieliny věže - západní
From the balcony in the N face, by building in the corner over the overhang, crack and… Rock Climbing
2
Gabrieliny věže - východní
Left on the N face via steps to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Gabrieliny věže - západní
From the arête to the ring and (by standing/mantling) left to the 2nd ring. (By a… Rock Climbing
4-
Gabrieliny věže - západní
All the way to the right in the valley face, climb the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Gabrieliny věže - západní
NW crack to the ledge, traverse left and crack to the overgrown balcony. To the right,… Rock Climbing
6-
Gabrieliny věže - západní
Like Gabriel's Arête to the ring of the Northwest Crack. Climb the face first directly,… Rock Climbing
6-
Gabrieliny věže - západní
Along the right valley arête and diagonally left to the ledge. Left to the ring, then by… Rock Climbing
2
Gabrieliny věže - západní
From the East over the false summits to the main summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pravčická jehla
From the gorge, follow the crack into the plateau face. Along the arête in the massif to… Rock Climbing
5+
Pravčická jehla
From the massif, descend through the chimney. To the left to the arête, then chimney … Rock Climbing
4-
Pravčická jehla
From the massif, ascend from the overhang to the summit by standing/mantling. Rock Climbing
5+
Pravčická jehla
From the ring, climb the face and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Pravčická jehla
In the center of the valley wall, diagonally left up the face and right along the… Rock Climbing
5
Pravčická jehla
Along the NE arête over the overhang and diagonally left through the corner to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Bratrský oltář
To the left of marker "141" in the SW face, climb the wall to a ledge, 2m right on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bratrský oltář
To the left in the S face to the ledge, over the overhang (ring) into the gully and up it… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Dubový kámen
To the left in the NW face, follow the crack to the ring. Climb the face and crack… Rock Climbing
2+
Bratrský oltář
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif (or descend from the massif and… Rock Climbing

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