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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Malý Pravčický kužel
Completely to the right on the N side, wall over the ring to the broken crack. Like… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý Pravčický kužel
Old route to the balcony. Traverse right and along the NE edge to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing
5
Malý Pravčický kužel
SE wall to the balcony, diagonally right to the ledge and traverse left behind the edge.… Rock Climbing
4+
Křížová věž
From NW, chimney to the ledge. Step over and wall diagonally right to the overhang … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Křížová věž
Right in the N wall over the ring to the ledge under the overhang (hourglass feature).… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Křížová věž
Left in the N wall over the ring to the ledge and like Dirty Path to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Křížová věž
Like Chimney to the ledge and then left to the platform. Like Speckled Rainbow to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Křížová věž
Right in the SW wall to a fine rib, up it and left by a groove to the ledge. Right along… Rock Climbing
5
Václavská věž
Right in the SE wall, corner to the horizontal notch and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
3
Křížová věž
From SE, chimney between the tower and massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Václavská věž
North route to the ledge. Edge, then right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Křížová věž
SE wall ring to the balcony, then left to the 2nd ring, wall diagonally right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Křížová věž
South edge over the ring to the rappel ring. Wall diagonally left, gully and crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Křížová věž
From the massif, descend to the ledge, overhang and edge to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Křížová věž
From the massif, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Václavská věž
Through the chimney between the Old Wenceslas Wall and the tower to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Václavská věž
From SE, crack to the platform and wall to the ring. Left along the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Václavská věž
From the ledge of the Old Wenceslas Wall, overhang and in the center of the NE wall,… Rock Climbing
5+
Václavská věž
Left of the NW crack, wall to the block. Wall ring to the balcony and middle of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Václavská věž
SE chimney 4m and left to the balcony in the middle of the wall (between the SE chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Václavská věž
NW crack to the platform, traverse right and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Stará Václavská stěna
Up the Old Way for 4m, traverse right (crossing the Roving Rappel route) and up the face… Rock Climbing
6
Stará Václavská stěna
To the right of the Old Way, up the face over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Stará Václavská stěna
From the path in the NW face, via a crack to a large corner. Left up the face and via a… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará Václavská stěna
To the right of the start of the Old Way, directly up the face to the ring and along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Václavská věž
From the SE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Václavská věž
Between the towers, diagonally right up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stará Václavská stěna
From the Northwest Chimney about 7m left, climbing over the overhang and up the face,… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará Václavská stěna
Up the overhanging SE edge over hour marks to a small plateau. Up the face to the ring.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Stará Václavská stěna
To the right of the Breath Route, up the face along a blunt edge (3 rings) directly to… Rock Climbing

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