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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Benátská věž
From the massif, descend and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřče
Left of the Old Path, up the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Benátská věž
From the SW wall diagonally right to the balcony. By crack over the overhang, wall left… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Benátská věž
Up the valley wall (6 rings), higher up by crack over the 7th ring and by chimney to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Čtyřče
Up the plateau corner and crack to the balcony, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vysoký roh
In the W wall via the chimney in a large corner to the terrace. About 6m left and via the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vysoký roh
About 10m right of the Birthday Route up the wall and a shallow corner, then left along… Rock Climbing
4-
Vysoký roh
Like the Long Chimney to a large balcony, 6m up the chimney, left along the ledge, wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Vysoký roh
Left in the N wall to an overgrown balcony. Via the chimney to the terrace. About 7m… Rock Climbing
3
Vysoký roh
From the lowest overgrown platform on the NE side via the chimney to the fore-summit. Via… Rock Climbing
6
Vysoký roh
Like the Long Chimney to the wedged boulder, left along the edge and wall over 3 rings… Rock Climbing
6-
Vysoký roh
Right of the Birthday Route up the wall over 3 rings to the terrace, directly later via… Rock Climbing
2+
Vysoký roh
Like the North Route to the terrace. Via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vysoký roh
About 10m left of the Birthday Present Route up the wall over 3 rings and over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vysoký roh
Like the Přepadová Route, rappel (or drop) and via the gully on friction directly to the… Rock Climbing
2
Vysoký roh
From the massif descend via the gully to the fore-summit. Further briefly descend via the… Rock Climbing
2+
Vysoký roh
From the massif descend to the sloping platform, rappel (or drop) and via the right… Rock Climbing
2+
Vysoký roh
From the 1st platform via the left chimney to the 2nd platform. Via the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vysoký roh
Via the Old Route to the fore-summit. Briefly down to the ledge and a jump to the balcony… Rock Climbing
3
Vysoký roh
Via the SW chimney to a large balcony and via the chimney to the wedged boulder.… Rock Climbing
5+
Vysoký roh
From the S edge of the massif descend to the ledge (ring). By standing from the rappel … Rock Climbing
3
Vysoký roh
Step over and via the gully directly to the 2nd platform. Via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
At the S edge (by standing) directly up to the ledge and like the South Route to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Up the crack in the SE corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Start like the East Route and traverse left into the S wall, up it to the ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Under the overhang (hourglass) traverse left, over the overhang and along the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Through the middle of the W wall (3m right of the Old Route) over several overhangs… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
From the boulder at the start of the Koutová Spára route, left to the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing
4-
Věž Dlouhého dolu
From the north via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Via the Sokolík crack directly to the platform and via the North Route to the summit. Rock Climbing

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