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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Sokolí hrad
By the corner left of number 38 in the NW wall to a platform. Right by the wall and a… Rock Climbing
4+
Sokolí hrad
From the ledge in the S wall, traverse left to a ledge that traverses the NW wall. About… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sokolí hrad
In the right part of the S wall, by an overhanging wall diagonally left over 2 rings,… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokolí hrad
About 2m right of Yellow Crack by the wall to a ledge (1st ring of Valley Route). By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sokolí hrad
As Yellow Crack about 5m up to a ledge, traverse left to a ring. By the wall about 4m… Rock Climbing
5
Sokolí hrad
Left in the S wall by a prominent crack (ring) to a balcony and by a corner crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Sokolí hrad
As the North Chimney to the plateau. From this chimney by a gully and the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Sokolí hrad
From the massif, descend by the last left chimney to the plateau. There, completely right… Rock Climbing
5+
Sokolí hrad
As the Valley Chimney several meters up, traverse left to a ring. (By aid climbing) by… Rock Climbing
3
Sokolí hrad
As the North Chimney, descend to the plateau. Left and at the small birch tree, descend… Rock Climbing
4+
Sokolí hrad
From the S foot by a crack and a chimney to a balcony. As the South Chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sokolí hrad
Left in the massif, descend step by step down the wall to a rocky point, jump to a pillar… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokolí hrad
Start about 5m right of "Giant Wall" by a wall with an overhanging start over a ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Sokolí hrad
Descent from the massif, traverse left, step across and by the E ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Matzseidelova stěna
Like the North Chimney to a large overgrown ledge. Through a narrow crack to the end … Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Matzseidelova stěna
All the way to the right in the massif, descend in the N direction and traverse to the N… Rock Climbing
6-
Matzseidelova stěna
Left of the Valley Edge, via a crack to a large niche. From the left, over a block… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Matzseidelova stěna
Left of the NW edge, by positioning, up the face (ring) and crack to the ledge (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Matzseidelova stěna
From the start of the Wild Route, traverse left behind the chimney to an overgrown… Rock Climbing
5
Matzseidelova stěna
From the path below the N face, via a chimney to the ledge. Left of the "Wild Route" via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Matzseidelova stěna
From the NE side, via a chimney between the tower and the massif to the high saddle. Up a… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Matzseidelova stěna
Left of the White Wall, up the face over 3 rings, higher up diagonally left to the 4th… Rock Climbing
4-
Matzseidelova stěna
Left in the massif, descend via a chimney into the gorge and by opposition between the… Rock Climbing
4-
Matzseidelova stěna
Like Overhanging Corner several meters up, then through a narrow internal chimney to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Matzseidelova stěna
Right of the White Wall, from the right onto the edge over 2 rings and right to the 3rd… Rock Climbing
3
Matzseidelova stěna
From the gorge, left onto the ledge to the S edge. (By positioning) up the face to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Matzseidelova stěna
Right in the SW face to the ring, with a double stand and up the face and crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Matzseidelova stěna
From the S, via an overhanging corner and chimney to the balcony. Right of the S edge, up… Rock Climbing
3
Matzseidelova stěna
From the massif, like the Old Route, descend into the gorge. By opposition between the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Matzseidelova stěna
From the massif, descend to a prominent spire. Jump to the summit. Rock Climbing

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