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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Through the middle of the right part of the SE wall under the overhang (hourglass) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Left of the North Crack via the wall over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Dlouhého dolu
Left in the north face via a crack diagonally left to the plateau and up the gully to the… Rock Climbing
3
Smrkový kámen
From the massif, descend and step over to the right edge, then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Smrkový kámen
In the center of the plateau wall, descend from the massif to a ledge, jump into the… Rock Climbing
4-
Věž Dlouhého dolu
West crack to the plateau, diagonally left and up the chimney, at the top right to the… Rock Climbing
3
Smrkový kámen
From the valley side via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Smrkový kámen
Up the plateau chimney from the NW, step over to the right edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Smrkový kámen
In the center of the plateau wall via a chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Smrkový kámen
Like the Old Route to the narrow chimney. Through it into the interior of the tower, then… Rock Climbing
3
Dešťový kámen
West edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Smrkový kámen
From the NW chimney into the plateau (one can also descend here from the massif). Narrow… Rock Climbing
4-
Dešťový kámen
East edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Dešťový kámen
In the southwest face over an overhang to a ledge and through the center of the wall to… Rock Climbing
4-
Dešťový kámen
Up the overgrown plateau (SE) face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Jelení skok
Left in the south face to the ring. (By building/standing) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Jelení skok
Along the left plateau edge via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Jelení skok
From the massif block, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Jelení skok
Northeast plateau edge via a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jelení skok
From the massif, by standing up from the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Eričin kámen
By the left plateau edge directly to the S summit. Traverse to the N summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Eričin kámen
From the west chimney between the pre-summit and the south summit, higher up by a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Eričin kámen
In the middle of the valley side by a chimney between the S and N summits, higher up by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Eričin kámen
Start from S by a chimney between the massif and the pre-summit to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Eričin kámen
Left from the massif, jump to the pre-summit and from there another jump to the S summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sokolí hrad
As Kání Route to an overgrown ledge. By a chimney between the main head and this tower… Rock Climbing
4+
Sokolí hrad
Completely left in the NW wall by a stepped corner to an overgrown ledge. About 8m right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sokolí hrad
As Kání Route to an overgrown ledge. Right on the N side by a crack to a ledge. Left and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sokolí hrad
On the N side, left of the corner of the North-West Route, by the wall over 3 rings and a… Rock Climbing
2+
Eričin kámen
In the middle of the plateau side by a chimney between the S and N summits, higher right… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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