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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Stará Václavská stěna
Up the face first straight, then left to the plateau. Traverse right, over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará Václavská stěna
All the way to the left in the N face to the ring, over the overhang and via a gully to… Rock Climbing
5
Stará Václavská stěna
From the start of the South Edge diagonally left to the ledge and right to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará Václavská stěna
To the left of Pfeilschmidt's route, up the face over 2 rings and left to the edge. Like… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará Václavská stěna
About 8m to the left of Pfeilschmidt's route, up the face to the ring and somewhat left… Rock Climbing
3
Stará Václavská stěna
In the center of the NW face (opposite the Old Way) via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stará Václavská stěna
About 3m to the right of Pfeilschmidt's route, up the face and along a stepped edge over… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará Václavská stěna
Briefly up like Pfeilschmidt's route, then right up the face over a ring and slightly… Rock Climbing
5
Stará Václavská stěna
Like the Old Way 6m up, then a long traverse left. Over the overhang to the plateau,… Rock Climbing
4+
Stará Václavská stěna
All the way to the right in the W face via a gully to the balcony and traverse right to… Rock Climbing
2+
Erichova věž
Along the plateau edge to the pre-summit, higher up like the Old Way to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Erichova věž
Left on the SE wall over 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Stará Václavská stěna
To the left of the start of the Old Way, up the face and over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Erichova věž
From the chimney of the Old Path, traverse the SE wall along the horizontal double crack… Rock Climbing
3
Erichova věž
Left on the SE wall via irons into the chimney of the Old Path and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Erichova věž
Briefly as a NW traverse to the center of the NW wall to the gully and up it to the… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Pravčická stěna
Up the wall to the left of the "Facing the Wall" route over the hourglass into the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Pravčická stěna
Right of the "Right Corner" route, start from the slope, up the wall diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pravčická stěna
On the SW wall by crack (2 rings) to the end. Up the corner to the notch, then by it and… Rock Climbing
2+
Erichova věž
Up the chimney on the NW wall to the fore-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Erichova věž
Left of the Old Path, traverse the horizontal double crack to the pulpit. Up the wide… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pravčická stěna
From the start of the "Right Corner" route, right up the wall and edge over 2 rings below… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Pravčická stěna
In the middle of the wall, by crack between the routes "Left Corner" and "Right Corner"… Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřče
On the NE wall, right of the Old Path, up the wall diagonally right to the ledge (ring).… Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřče
Far left on the plateau wall by crack and east edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Čtyřče
From S by gully and chimney to the S summit. Traverse to the balcony and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřče
In the left part of the valley side near the pine tree, up the wall over the large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Čtyřče
Right of the Valley Chimney, up the wall over the overhang and by corner over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čtyřče
Up the overgrown valley gully and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřče
To the right on the NE wall, up to the right via an overgrown ledge and crack to the… Rock Climbing

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