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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Bratrský oltář
To the left in the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bratrský oltář
From the valley side, climb the Falcon's Crack with an overhanging start to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Jeskyně českých bratří
In the back of the cave, climb up and through the crack in the ceiling over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6-
Dubový kámen
In the middle of the NW face, climb up the crack and traverse right to the ring. Follow… Rock Climbing
6
Dubový kámen
In the center of the SW wall over the ring to the 2nd ring and via the Wedding Veil route… Rock Climbing
5+
Dubový kámen
From the edge to the sloping balcony (ring). Up the wall diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dubový kámen
Via the crack in the center of the SE wall for 4m, left up the wall to the ledge at the S… Rock Climbing
5
Dubový kámen
Directly up the S edge to the ring and like the Iron Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dubový kámen
Right of the S edge, up the rib and edge to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
6-
Dubový kámen
Right in the SW wall, up the gully to the ledge and over the overhang to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Dubový kámen
From the massif, jump into the gully of the Old Route and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dubový kámen
Through the center of the SE wall via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dubový kámen
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif and the gully of the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
3
Dubový kámen
From the massif, descend the gully to the ledge, step across to the left and up the gully… Rock Climbing
4-
Dubový kámen
In the massif to the right of the Old Route, descend to the ledge. Drop over and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Dubový kámen
About 2m to the right of the Sickle, up the wall to a band of slabs. Diagonally right up… Rock Climbing
5
Dubový kámen
All the way to the right in the SE wall, about 8m up, step left and up the wall, higher… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Železné věže
From the massif, leap across to the summit of the S tower. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Železné věže
From the massif, jump to the N summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Železné věže
From the massif, descend and step across to the summit of the S tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Železné věže
From the massif, descend left and drop onto the SE edge, and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý Pravčický kužel
From the 1st ring, left behind the edge and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Železné věže
Left in the plateau wall, up the chimney between the S and N summit, higher up along the… Rock Climbing
5
Malý Pravčický kužel
Old route to the balcony. Up the wall into the niche, diagonally left, higher up… Rock Climbing
4-
Železné věže
Briefly via the Old Route chimney and the Falcon's Crack near the NE edge to the S summit… Rock Climbing
3
Železné věže
From the S, up the chimney between the tower and the massif and right up the gully to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Malý Pravčický kužel
Like the Southeast Route into the niche and somewhat to the right to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Malý Pravčický kužel
From the right, wall to the W edge. Along the edge to the platform and to the ring, right… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malý Pravčický kužel
From the block under the W edge over the overhang and wall to the ring of Short Detour.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Malý Pravčický kužel
West route to the platform, traverse left and broken crack to the ledge. Left to the 2nd… Rock Climbing

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