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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Matzseidelova stěna
From the SE, descend in the massif via a chimney to the saddle. In the saddle, go S… Rock Climbing
2+
Matzseidelova stěna
From the chimney of the Old Route, go right through a widening gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Matzseidelova stěna
From the massif, descend via a gully and step over to the sub-peak. Jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Oddílová věž
In the middle of the plateau wall, via squeeze to the ring. Up the wall diagonally right… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Oddílová věž
From the balcony in the valley wall, up the wall over 2 rings, higher via the crack to… Rock Climbing
4+
Oddílová věž
In the left part of the plateau side, via squeeze to the ring, diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Oddílová věž
In the West wall, via the crack over 2 rings and to the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Oddílová věž
From the left into the plateau side of Oddílová Tower, up the wall and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing
4+
Oddílová věž
From the ring, traverse right and up the wall over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Říjnová věž
Through the chimney in the East wall to the ledge and as a variation of the 'Old Way' to… Rock Climbing
5
Říjnová věž
To the right, before the halfway point from the Chimney, along the edge to the ledge of… Rock Climbing
6-
Říjnová věž
Along the SW edge and via the small pinnacle to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Oddílová věž
From the South to the saddle, right via the chimney to the boulder and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Oddílová věž
Via the squeeze chimney between the tower and the massif to the right onto the balcony of… Rock Climbing
3
Říjnová věž
Via the 'Old Way' to the ledge and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Říjnová věž
On the right valley edge, via the gully into the niche, via the gully (ring) to the ledge… Rock Climbing
2+
Říjnová věž
From the ledge to the left and via the chimney in the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Říjnová věž
From the boulder at the plateau edge to the ledge, traverse right into the valley wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Mřenka
From the NW, via crack, chimney and squeeze to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mřenka
To the left of the SW edge, up the wall and via the slanted crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Říjnová věž
To the left in the valley wall, via the crack and gully to the ledge. As a variation of… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Matzseidelova věž
From the massif, descend and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mřenka
In the valley wall, from the right, via the notch to the ledge (hourglass). To the left,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mřenka
From the SE, via the chimney between the tower and the massif directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Matzseidelova věž
From the South, in the corner between the tower and the massif, first a double crack,… Rock Climbing
3
Matzseidelova věž
From the North, via the crack to the pillar on the plateau side, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Matzseidelova věž
From the saddle to the slanted platform in the massif. Step across and up the wall into… Rock Climbing
2+
Matzseidelova věž
Along the right upper crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký tetřev
Approx. 3m to the right of the Valley Route, along the wall slightly diagonally right … Rock Climbing
5+
Velký tetřev
To the left of the Valley Route via a corner crack to the edge, along it to the terrace.… Rock Climbing

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