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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Velký tetřev
From the base of the tower's pedestal along the SW edge to the ring. Right beyond the… Rock Climbing
6
Velký tetřev
Via the Valley Route to the forepeak and along the wall over two K to the 2nd K of the NW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velký tetřev
From K briefly to the right and from the clock along the small crack to the left in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velký tetřev
Along the N edge via a crack to the ring. Above the ring, a long traverse to the right … Rock Climbing
6
Velký tetřev
From the 1st ring directly along the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký tetřev
Along the E edge directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Velký tetřev
In the NW face through a crack to the ledge. Overhanging wall and friction climb over the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký tetřev
On the SE side, through the corner to the terrace. Like the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Velký tetřev
To the left of the E edge (build up) into the niche, along the wall (additional ring)… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký tetřev
From the forepeak along the S edge to the plateau (ring). Traverse left and along the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malý tetřev
Completely to the right in the SE wall, up a crack to the platform on the E edge.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malý tetřev
Up the thin crack in the SE wall to the overhang and right into the crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký tetřev
From the ring, cross right and along the E edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malý tetřev
Up the corner crack in the NE wall over the overhang to the fore-summit. Via the Old… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý tetřev
Up the corner crack on the right in the NW wall to the saddle and via the Chimney variant… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malý tetřev
From the saddle from Velký tetřev, up the crack to the balcony. Left up the wall and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Malý tetřev
Right in the SW wall, up a narrow chimney (as a variant of the Old Route, higher up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Malý tetřev
Up the overhanging wall of the pillar below the rappel and higher past a ring "Forbidden… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý tetřev
Up the squeeze chimney between the towers and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malý tetřev
Rock Climbing
3
Malíček
Up the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malý tetřev
Left in the SE wall, up the chimney to the saddle and up the chimney to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing
5
Malíček
Up the center of the S wall past a ring into the falcon crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Malíček
Along the valley (W) edge past a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malíček
Briefly like the Telescopic Edge upwards, traverse left and in the middle of the wall… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Malý tetřev
Right in the SW wall, up a narrow chimney to the saddle. Rock Climbing
3
Tetřeví výspa
From the platform in the S wall, up the chimney to the ledge. Traverse right and like the… Rock Climbing
2
Tetřeví výspa
From the massif, descend the chimney to the ledge, step across to the edge and follow it… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Tetřeví výspa
From the path on the valley side, ascend the center of the SW face towards the falcon's… Rock Climbing
4+
Tetřeví výspa
Up the SE chimney, towards the end and left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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