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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Věž Stříbrné stěny
Right in the E wall, via a small crack diagonally left to a ledge, traverse right and via… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Stříbrné stěny
From the SE edge, via the wall diagonally left to the ledge, 3m left (also here from the… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Stříbrné stěny
Directly along the E edge, higher up right to the crack, via that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Stříbrné stěny
From the balcony, left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Stříbrné stěny
From the NE edge, via the wall diagonally right, then left to the crack, through it to… Rock Climbing
6
Rozpolcený roh
Like Direct Jaws, 25m up to the corner. Diagonally right around the E edge, traverse to… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozpolcený roh
Through the center of the valley (E) wall via a crack to the ring. Via the Jaws route to… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozpolcený roh
To the left of the Liguere route, up an overhanging crack and corner to the balcony below… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rozpolcený roh
From the start of the Valley Route, diagonally right up the pillar to the balcony. Over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Rozpolcený roh
In the E wall to the balcony, (by building up) and along the edge to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing
5+
Rozpolcený roh
From the wall directly to the ring, to the right along the edge and up the gully to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozpolcený roh
From the base of the SE wall, through cracks, a chimney, and a crack to the left to the… Rock Climbing
5
Rozpolcený roh
From the ring, up the wall to the ledge, traverse left past the edge and up the gully to… Rock Climbing
4+
Rozpolcený roh
From the plateau side, through the chimney to the valley side, traverse right and up the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Řádový hrad
To the left in the massif, jump to the NW fore-summit, over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Rozpolcený roh
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the ledge, then left along it and up the gully … Rock Climbing
4-
Řádový hrad
To the right in the massif, descend via a crack, then step over to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Řádový hrad
To the right in the massif at the gully, briefly upwards, then jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rozpolcený roh
To the left in the SW wall to the ledge and traverse right (ring). Up the wall via the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Řádový hrad
To the left above the withered pine tree at the Split Corner, up the wall to a small… Rock Climbing
2+
Řádový hrad
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up by a side chimney to the… Rock Climbing
2
Řádový hrad
From the massif, to the right, up a overgrown gully and at the beech tree, step over to… Rock Climbing
2+
Řádový hrad
From the plateau between the foretower and the summit, directly up the gully to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Řádový hrad
From the SE, through the gully into the chimney and along it to the plateau side. Like… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Řádový hrad
From the massif, like the Old Route, up an overgrown gully, a waterfall, along the wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stříbrná stěna
Left of the East route, up the wall and gully via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Stříbrná stěna
From the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Stříbrná stěna
From the massif, descend and then like the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Stříbrná stěna
In the center of the valley wall, up a right-trending notch, before the end turn right… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Stříbrná stěna
Completely on the left in the valley wall, up the crack and wall via 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing

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